Customs: Label paper(s)? [We're not talking waterslide here, folks!]

Discussion in 'Creative General Discussion' started by Superquad7, Aug 10, 2009.

  1. Superquad7

    Superquad7 We're only human. Super Mod

    Joined:
    May 19, 2003
    Posts:
    47,598
    News Credits:
    11
    Trophy Points:
    342
    Likes:
    +23
    Hey guys, REDLINE and myself have been discussing (albeit briefly) the issue of label papers. When it comes to labels, I like to design them myself. I also really do not like the process of water slide labels, and I don't like how thin they are either (I never enjoyed how thin and fragile they are either). I have always been a fan of peel + stick labels, and perhaps that's because they were ingrained in me with G1. I dunno.

    Anyways, I've experimented with different peel + stick label printer papers, and the Avery papers have came the closest to satisfying me. Though I do enjoy the foil labels very much (I use them for my faction symbols and LOVE them), I'm not 100% satisfied. First, with the foil labels, they're ONLY precut as the size of return address labels. This in turn limits the printing area. For faction symbols, it's not been an issue, though. With clear labels, I've used the Avery clear label paper, and it's ok, but it's not durable. Also, it doesn't take to any kind of top coating, as I've had the ink slide right off before after a clear coat. I rarely use clear labels, but I do like to use them, especially if I've designed a label having the color in mind that the label goes over. With white-backed labels, I've used Avery label paper as well. Unlike the foil labels, it's available in full sheets like the clear labels. The drawback to these is that they have no gloss to them. I've also looked into using CD labels as well. Some papers tend to have the gloss to them, but they suffer the same fate as the foil labels, as they're pre-cut for CDs.

    As much as I love reprolabels, I can't afford to have a set of labels printed up and sent to me, etc. every time I need a set. Also, with my own printer, I can see if I need to tweak a design and whatnot right then.

    Anyways, I wanted to have you guys discuss the issues of labels, what you use, what like like/dislike, and so forth :) 

    (btw, the papers I use now made by Avery, can be found at Staples, Office Max, Office Depot or Walmart/Target (though the major retail stores have less selection than the office supply stores). You can also order from Avery from their site, Office Supplies - Office Products | Avery
     
    Last edited: Aug 26, 2009
  2. hXcpunk23

    hXcpunk23 The Chaos Bringer

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2007
    Posts:
    3,021
    Trophy Points:
    171
    Likes:
    +0
    Ebay:
    I was just thinking about this today also. I've done some faction symbols and smaller things on my own using some of the simple label type paper found at places like Target or Wal-Mart. It didn't need to be anything fancy and it served its purpose back then, but now I'm looking into doing some for myself again (same reasons you state--I love reprolabels and I've ordered from them in the past, but when money is tight, you gotta go with something quicker and easier--and I like that you can also have it NOW, as you stated, Allen). The only downside is I don't have the time or patience to sit and create labels for various Transformers--if I can find a scan, I'll try re-sizing to fit my needs or simply do without and paint them on (if at all possible).

    At the moment, I'm looking into some Jazz labels for my custom that's been a year in the making. I'm almost at a point where I'll need them, yet I don't want to pay a chunk of money for some labels to be mailed weeks later and while I have Photoshop, I just don't have the time to sit and create them. I've considered using the G1 Reissue labels from the Takara Box reissue Jazz, but I'd hate to use those or remove any from that figure simply to use on this one. My bud WheelJack over at Sector70 added some cool labels for anyone who wants to try and resize or use them on their respective Jazz customs, but I'm not sure they'll work for my Prowl-into-Jazz custom (since WJ's is a re-shell and all). In the end, I'd prefer the labels/stickers over water slide decals though, simply because there is less work involved and I can always apply a layer of future to seal the labels in.

    Got a link to that Avery paper, Allen? I need to figure out just what I plan to do here. I may end up going with reprolables, but maybe scanning and trying to enlarge them a bit--either that or question them about doing some custom labels for the Prowl-into-Jazz customs out there. If it runs no more than $10, it might be worth it instead of trying to do my own. Overall though, I'm moving in that direction also though. It's much easier to print something here and now instead of waiting and checking your mail for something.

    Another cool printing material is something I picked up at Wal-Mart back when I had a Neo Geo AES system and printed out tons of the moves lists and things for their King of Fighters, Samurai Shodown, Fatal Fury, and Metal Slug games. That material was a clear sort of acetate (like those clear cover folders for presentation or something). I had success with my older HP Inkjet (Deskjet) printer (I believe that's what it was--I now have a more recent model of it. You could print out some nice color on the clear (it still remained see-through a bit), but you could put it onto a colored backing if need be--white, black, etc. These could be used on some paint colors on customs to achieve a similar effect as that of the water slide decals, but in more of a simple approach. Just print as you would on normal paper, then let the ink dry. I may go back to this to try on some customs in the near future, but for now, I'm interested in the exact paper you use. I like to read up and get some info on it all before choosing what I'll actually go with. I know water slide decals look nice and work great, but as a kid, I never had good luck with those things--I could apply them great to one side of a model, yet the other would end up jacked up somehow (either the decal would tear, it would bunch up or I'd get a small crease in it). I'm sure I could apply them much better now, but I lost interest in them quickly as a kid and stuck with spray paint. lol

    Interesting topic, man--can't wait to read more about all of this.
     
  3. Superquad7

    Superquad7 We're only human. Super Mod

    Joined:
    May 19, 2003
    Posts:
    47,598
    News Credits:
    11
    Trophy Points:
    342
    Likes:
    +23
    hXcpunk23, I updated my initial post for you with the information about Avery :) 
     
  4. Th0r4z1n3

    Th0r4z1n3 The F*cking Lizard King! Veteran

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2006
    Posts:
    4,054
    News Credits:
    6
    Trophy Points:
    161
    Likes:
    +9
    I just started messing around with some custom labels here lately. I've had really good results with the design aspect but I'm still looking for a good ink jet paper to print them out on. I've tried the Avery full sheet shipping labels but they look kinda dull. I was wondering if anyone has had any luck with something like this, sticker backed photo paper.

    Also, as far as silver foil paper goes, I've found this (kinda pricey to me) and these for clear sheets.

    Any input on these?

    PS
    My first sticker sheet for anyone that's curious ;) 
     
  5. Satomiblood

    Satomiblood Prototype Black

    Joined:
    Nov 2, 2007
    Posts:
    19,337
    Trophy Points:
    247
    Likes:
    +4
    I'm going to need to create flames for my custom Road Caesar as well as one of the Gobots in my Puzzler project. So this will help for sure.
     
  6. Superquad7

    Superquad7 We're only human. Super Mod

    Joined:
    May 19, 2003
    Posts:
    47,598
    News Credits:
    11
    Trophy Points:
    342
    Likes:
    +23
    I've used some glossy stock label paper, and the sheets I used don't hold ink well because of the lack of tooth to the paper. I can still smudge ink off of my Pepsi Prime trailer after 4 years of having printed it off. :( 

    Keep us posted on your results! :) 

    I know REDLINE has been experimenting as of late with some label papers, after his post office screwed up the labels I'd sent him. If you actually get packages delivered with no issues, he'd be envious. I've had more problems with his post than everyone else I've sent to combined :lol 
     
  7. Th0r4z1n3

    Th0r4z1n3 The F*cking Lizard King! Veteran

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2006
    Posts:
    4,054
    News Credits:
    6
    Trophy Points:
    161
    Likes:
    +9
    I just had a thought. I noticed while pealing off some stickers that they had a thin clear film over them. Has anyone tried applying a thin clear laminating (spelling?) sheet over them before cutting them to prevent smugging the ink?

    I'll have to look into it a little more when I get home but I figured I'd see if anyone else has given this a try.
     
  8. Th0r4z1n3

    Th0r4z1n3 The F*cking Lizard King! Veteran

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2006
    Posts:
    4,054
    News Credits:
    6
    Trophy Points:
    161
    Likes:
    +9
    Stickers, although I wouldn't mind finding out a bit more about those dry transfer decals
     
  9. Soundblaster1

    Soundblaster1 The Heisenberg of Toys

    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2004
    Posts:
    13,996
    News Credits:
    11
    Trophy Points:
    256
    Likes:
    +11
    I used cut-up blank address labels (They were probably Avery, IIRC) and clear nail polish when I came across that bridge in '07. The thing looks as good (condition wise, I'm not saying I did a great job on it) today as it did then and there wasn't much effort required to make it happen.

    http://www.tfw2005.com/boards/transformers-customs-kitbashes/155560-diaclassics-mirage.html

    I'm not egotistical enough to come in here and expect credit for anything, I'm just providing an example of how any Joe Schmo can make his own decent-looking stickers that will hold up surprisingly well over time.
     
  10. Superquad7

    Superquad7 We're only human. Super Mod

    Joined:
    May 19, 2003
    Posts:
    47,598
    News Credits:
    11
    Trophy Points:
    342
    Likes:
    +23
    Yes, I have. Clear packaging tape gives a pretty decent result, as I used some on some labels earlier this year. I wasn't 100% satisfied, but I did mostly like the result.

    I've also used clear tape on my Diaclone Sunstreaker. I really wished I could remember what I used on those, as I was pretty happy with the results (a tad more so than I was with the custom I'm referring to previously.

    Yeah, this is what I'm speaking of in this thread. I've been using the Avery (or of similar brand, as there are a few, even store brands) for nearly 5 years now for customs, and even longer for other art projects. The crux of this thread is that I'm satisfied with the whole process and everything else except for the quality of the paper (which isn't bad, but it's still just a tad shy of things like reprolabels uses).
     
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2009
  11. Th0r4z1n3

    Th0r4z1n3 The F*cking Lizard King! Veteran

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2006
    Posts:
    4,054
    News Credits:
    6
    Trophy Points:
    161
    Likes:
    +9
    I thought about clear coating over top of them but thought that the wet paint would pull the ink out of the papaer... I'll have to give the nail polish a try.
     
  12. Superquad7

    Superquad7 We're only human. Super Mod

    Joined:
    May 19, 2003
    Posts:
    47,598
    News Credits:
    11
    Trophy Points:
    342
    Likes:
    +23
    I have had that happen to me, both with clear coat and with Future.
     
  13. Th0r4z1n3

    Th0r4z1n3 The F*cking Lizard King! Veteran

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2006
    Posts:
    4,054
    News Credits:
    6
    Trophy Points:
    161
    Likes:
    +9
    I tried the clear nail polish out last night by applying it directly to the sticker sheet before cutting them. It didn't look bad but didn't give the desired effect I was looking for. It took about 3-4 coats to get a glossy finish as the paper kept soaking up the nail polish.

    The dollar Tree around here has some pretty crappy clear shipping tape (by crappy I mean that it's really thin), maybe I'll give that a try. It never occurred to me that tape might be a good solution, I was over complicating things and looking for a full sheet (8.5 x 11) to use.
     
  14. REDLINE

    REDLINE longer days, plz? Veteran

    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2004
    Posts:
    27,867
    News Credits:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    296
    Likes:
    +3
    I've found that testor's plastic cement works quite well to coat the stickers before you clear-coat your project, so the ink doesn't bleed out. I've got something I want to try, I was talking with AX23, and he mentioned how he uses joiner for his water-slides, and I want to try using this on a label to see if that will work as a better protector of the ink for clear-coating, as it would be a lot thinner than glue.
     
  15. frenzyrumble

    frenzyrumble Banned

    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2007
    Posts:
    8,657
    News Credits:
    50
    Trophy Points:
    176
    Likes:
    +50
    how about a few coats of clear coat? I know that's what I use on water slide decals; start w/ a thin mist, then heavier coats. eventually, there's a layer thick enough to stand against any type of moisture. I usually use Krylon "preserve it" or Testors' clear coats.
     
  16. REDLINE

    REDLINE longer days, plz? Veteran

    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2004
    Posts:
    27,867
    News Credits:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    296
    Likes:
    +3
    Because, as stated, the clear coats all make the ink bleed. Hence the need to put SOMEthing else over the labels BEFORE the actual clear coat. I always want stickers/labels/decals clear-coated, not just for protection, but also so that their finish perfectly matches that of all the paints and dyed parts, so they look less like something stuck on the toy. But for some reason these label papers bleed your inkjet ink when future or even testors clear coats touch them.

    I found that Testor's model cement works perfectly, but it's just a tad bit thicker than I'd like. This is why I want to try coating the labels with decal joiner, see how that works at protecting the ink for the clear-coating process.
     
  17. Th0r4z1n3

    Th0r4z1n3 The F*cking Lizard King! Veteran

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2006
    Posts:
    4,054
    News Credits:
    6
    Trophy Points:
    161
    Likes:
    +9
    Redline, you might try clear fingernail polish if you're gonna clear coat over top of them anyway. It didn't make the color bleed when I tried it, my only problem with it was that I'm not looking to clear coat over top of my labels; I'm looking to mimic the old school G1 look. A silgle coat of clear nail polish didn't dry that thick as most of it was soaked into the paper but still appeared to "seal" the ink in. Just a thought.
     
  18. Superquad7

    Superquad7 We're only human. Super Mod

    Joined:
    May 19, 2003
    Posts:
    47,598
    News Credits:
    11
    Trophy Points:
    342
    Likes:
    +23
  19. frenzyrumble

    frenzyrumble Banned

    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2007
    Posts:
    8,657
    News Credits:
    50
    Trophy Points:
    176
    Likes:
    +50
    but a fine mist (10-12" away) would create a good barrier, thicker/closer coats following it. I can't say I've ever tried it, however - have clear coated regular prints on plain paper using this technique, and can't see how label paper would react differently.
     
  20. formula93

    formula93 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2009
    Posts:
    1,037
    News Credits:
    2
    Trophy Points:
    126
    Likes:
    +2
    Ebay:
    I work at a sign shop, and we have two different kinds of vinyl printers. I'm thinking of printing up some decals and seeing how each type of print reacts to the clear coats. the vinyl is already sticky (enough to last for years outside), so I think they'll be able to hold up to just about anything.
     

Share This Page