Beyond Basics: Hydrogen Peroxide Vs. Sunfading: Tested

Discussion in 'Tutorials and How Tos' started by chansformers, May 18, 2009.

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  1. chansformers

    chansformers butcher of the bots

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    Many have posted about using hydrogen peroxide to reverse the sun damage in G1 figs. For the past two weeks, I’ve tried out this method and these are the results. I tried both natural sunlight and artificial UV light from a lamp.
    Here’s a list of all that was required:

    • 3 bottles of 3% 10 volume hydrogen peroxide usp (2$each);
    • 2 bottles of 6% 20 volume hydrogen peroxide (4$each);
    • Glass jar (3$);
    • Halogen lamp from Walmart (15$);
    • 1 pair of plastic chopsticks (no, not kidding);
    • A bunch of sun faded sacrifices.

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    The step by step of how to do it yourself the easiest way is:


    Thoroughly wash your robot (a tooth brush and sunlight dish soap works real well to get all the nooks and crannies);

    Once your bot is dried off a bit (not dripping water) go ahead and disassemble him (this will help him fit better into the glass jar);

    Take your hydrogen peroxide and start filling the glass jar, but only about 5/8ths full;

    Start throwing your bot parts into the jar (now you’ll know why you only filled it up 5/8ths, as I learned the hard way and ended up wiping up a lot of peroxide;

    Once the lid is on, put the jar outside where it’ll probably be in the sun all day;

    As time goes by (every 40-50 min) check on the jar, open it up, and use the chopsticks to stir/move the parts around and to dissipate the tiny bubbles that accumulated. If you don’t, everything will keep floating in one giant mass at the top of the jar. Whatever is in the middle of that mass will not get the needed UV rays;

    Once you’re satisfied with the color, take your chopsticks and start plucking those pieces out of the solution;

    I like to drop them into a bowl of soapy water, then again with the toothbrush;

    Reassemble bot once dry (this would be a good time to replace the screws if you have new ones).

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    A few things I noticed while trying this out is:

    Patience is number one;

    If there’s a sticker on the plastic, the UV will not penetrate the plastic behind it. (unless it’s clear/transparent like the G1 Pretenders);

    Never use clear plastic containers (the first jar I had was plastic and it ended up somehow bubbling out the bottom of the jar) always glass only;

    Certain stickers get a “hazing” sheen to them, while others remain untouched;

    G1 rub symbols are unaffected by the solution (unless your symbol is half peeling off, then it’ll seep in between the layers);

    Whites and grey colors are recommended over other colors;

    Make sure to move/turn the jar often when using the halogen lamp (extremely concentrated beam = overcooked look);

    In extreme sun fading cases (like the G1 Hun-grr I used), some plastic just can’t be saved. It’s been in the sun “browning” for so long, and it can’t be salvaged. The purple came back, but wherever the sun damage was, the purple ends up looking lighter than the purple areas that weren’t too faded from the beginning;

    G1 rub/faction symbols will remain untouched as long as it doesn’t have any splitting/separation going on;

    Constantly stir/move your piece’s around in the jar, too long in one spot and you’ll end up with certain areas that have “crazing/fading”(think of how long that G1 bot sat in front of a store front window and how it got faded in the first place. A good example is the G1 Hun-grr I used for this, as his whole front bot mode was literally brown; afterwards he’s now white, but his purple chest pieces have a really faded look to them from staying in one place too long in the jar;

    Once you put a bot in and after a few minutes in the sun, if you don’t start seeing tiny bubbles going up (like a glass of beer), add more “new” peroxide to your jar. I haven’t found any difference/adverse effect from mixing used and new peroxide yet. Next up . . . a yellowed Star Saber!

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    * * * * *

    (Below is some exerts from the discussion that is further useful about the process that chansformers shares with us here. ~Superquad7)


    It should only be long pins that you have to knock out to separate the grey sides from the trailer. You can dump the whole thing in there if you have a big enough container, but move it around very often. Never let any other color than white/grey sit in one angle too long. If you do, it’ll end up looking faded. At the moment I’m testing a few different magic potions that will hopefully bring back any colors faded/damaged from not moving the pieces often enough. Results are coming soon I hope (for stripped screws I usually use an "easy out" bit, available from crappy tire. Ask them for the set with the thinnest shank.)

    I'm not the one who discovered this

    That’s crazy to know the original discovery was made to refurbish old computer shells. Thanks for the links too! There’s some really good information in them!


     

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