Heavy/Scratch: How to: Bodywork 101

Discussion in 'Radicons Customs' started by Wikkid, Mar 13, 2011.

  1. Wikkid

    Wikkid Semi-retired customizer

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    Part 1

    Creating contours

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    ^^Begin by gluing styrene or whatever substrate you plan on using to the project. Shown here is styrene panel bonded to MP Starscreams hip junk. This will become a rear quarter panel for a MP Hot Rod project.

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    ^^The factory part already had a flow that suited this project but needed to be widened and curved in specific areas. I begin by putting down a piece of 80 grit sticky back sandpaper to my desk top. I then sand the area down in a rocking motion to achieve a gradual curve. It's important to use long strokes and be sure not to press hard. Let the grit do the cutting.

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    ^^I use the same technique on the other side of the panel.

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    ^^Now cover the whole thing in filler.

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    ^^Follow the same technique as before and round your panel out to your liking. Do not sand it all off, we're trying to create a larger, rounded body panel.

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    ^^Side panel gets the same treatment. On this side, I rounded the lower quarter to curve inwards towards the rocker panels.

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    ^^Wrapping a piece of sandpaper around my finger, I......

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    ^^....notch out a combination crown in the forward section of the quarter panel. This then needs to be worked into the other high crowns by sanding the curves lightly.

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    ^^ The panel takes shape as so. I'll need to go in a put a quick skiff on the dark red area which is a low area then sand it out.

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    ^^Always be sure to test fit your parts.
     

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  2. Wikkid

    Wikkid Semi-retired customizer

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    Part 2

    Filling and tightening gaps around moving parts.

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    ^^I begin by filling the 90 degree angle in the fender wedge. This is done to eliminate the joint line and create a seamless flow between the two panels.

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    ^^After sanding the whole area for the sake of adhesion, I fill over everything end to end.

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    ^^After sanding out the fender in the same way I did the quarters earlier I fold a piece of sandpaper and finish the inner fender to hood edge.

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    ^^The finished product here is the hood flowing directly into the fender and the fender into the bumper. I also re-arched the wheel well.

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    ^^Using a razor knife, I score the edge where the panel is to detach. Do not cut too deep or you'll end up with wide gaps again.

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    The panel should just pop off clean if the prep work was done right and the product is sound.
     
  3. Wikkid

    Wikkid Semi-retired customizer

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    Part 3

    Fixing mistakes.

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    ^^ On this project, I went and installed a matrix bay within the hood/chest. This was all done without the actual matrix in place so once I cut the opening and installed the hinges and matrix, it pushed the panels outward. I'm way too lazy to start over on this after all the work so I cheated by raising the rest of the panels to align.

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    ^^After prep sanding everything, once again we apply filler to the entire area.

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    ^^Using the earlier techniques of long strokes and a gradual curve, the panel is sanded to fit again.

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    ^^Now we score the outer edge once again.

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    ^^There's the church and there's the steeple. Open the doors and see all the people.

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    ^^Then close it up to see how well everything fits. If the alignment problem remains, fill again until everything sits true.

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    ^^....and off to primer.
     
  4. SPLIT LIP

    SPLIT LIP Dry built

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    This is so cool!
     
  5. grayfox

    grayfox Well-Known Member

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    Great tutorial! Thanks for posting it.

    What is that filler product you use??
     
  6. G60Force

    G60Force World Smallest Mini-Con

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    inspirational!
     
  7. Pimp My Toy

    Pimp My Toy AKA Jimster

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    Good stuff! It's made me search out fillers and they look to be a great alterative to the epoxy putties that I've been using. Aways been a bit weary of them due to concerns about strength but looking at the specs of 'green putty' (which I can easily get hold of) it apparently bonds very well to styrene.

    Thanks ;) 
     
  8. simonatmac

    simonatmac The stop motion maker

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    Thanks for sharing, man!
     
  9. dkr7

    dkr7 "Argh' Hexagonal Nuts!"

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    awesome! you may wanna use a finer grit sand paper tho
     
  10. legolas grof

    legolas grof Cardboard Industries CEO

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    nice work
     
  11. grayfox

    grayfox Well-Known Member

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    So green putty is a type of filler? Where is that sold?
     
  12. nemesisred

    nemesisred Well-Known Member

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  13. rmac-69

    rmac-69 TF HUNTER

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    This is all good and well, but I wanna see the robot mode of this guy dammit!:drunk 
     

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  14. Pimp My Toy

    Pimp My Toy AKA Jimster

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    Here's a link as an example; it's all over the Modelzone stores in the UK.

    Squadron GREEN PUTTY, FILLER Model Tools on eBay (end time 30-Mar-11 16:29:43 BST)

    Not to be confused with 'green stuff' the 2 part expoxy filler used alot by miniature modellers (which I use for Robot Heroes work).

    Yep, I use that too, but it's a 2-part mix. They're both good tools to have in your arsenal for use wherever appropriate.
     
  15. Deonasis

    Deonasis Well-Known Member

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    Cool and well explained tutorial. I never would have know where to find out about all these steps. I would have had a poor looking gappy custom. Hot Rod is going to be HOT!
     
  16. grayfox

    grayfox Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the info guys, I appreciate it.

    I wonder what filler the original poster is using. what he uses seems to be pretty liquid when applied. It doesn't sound like it's easy to apply, anyway.
     
  17. Ramrider

    Ramrider TF Art Lad

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    Thanks for that, Jim. I've seen it in my local Modelzone, but never actually tried it. Is it similar to the polyester putty that Japanese figure sculptors seem to use a lot?

    I dunno, it looks like it's pretty much glopped on (I'm not sure if I just made that word up :p ), and cleaned up afterwards.
    But yeah, I am curious as to what the red filler is.

    Either way, thanks again for the tutes, Wikkid! I can definitely see this coming in handy! :D 
     
  18. Wikkid

    Wikkid Semi-retired customizer

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    The filler I use is Fusors 114 plastic bumper filler. [​IMG]

    I didn't mention it as I believe you d00ds probably have other alternatives which are more readily available. Fusor 114 is a product from the autobody industries used to fill bumpers and other plastic components. It applies very easily and pretty much just soaks into the sand scratched laid up in the prep work. It also sands rediculously easy and adheres to anything. Another advantage is is won't halo or break when bent and rarely ever pinholes. All this comes at a price as it normally costs $60 CAD. I heard you can get it on Ebay for $30 USD though.

    I should also add to the thread that you should probably finish your work in 320. I finish in 180 but I'm also using a urethane two-part primer which doesn't shrink or swell.
     
  19. grayfox

    grayfox Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the clarification Wikkid.

    Damn, Fusors is freaking expensive. looks like it's easy to work with tough. Out of curiosity, how much product do you get for $60?
     

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