Customs: How can I swap these heads?

Discussion in 'Creative General Discussion' started by Detour, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. Detour

    Detour TFWiki.net, use it!

    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2007
    Posts:
    438
    News Credits:
    2
    Trophy Points:
    76
    Likes:
    +2
    After months of searching, I finally found a cheap Cybertron Unicron to get started on my Classics Bludgeon project.

    Sadly, after painstakingly taking both heads apart to swap them, I found that they had rivets plunged deep in the plastic.

    I have no idea how I can get them out and switch them around (after doing extensive mods to Unicron's helmet, that is). I'm hoping there's a way I can do this while retaining the head's mobility.
    Pics of both heads, opened, are enclosed.

    Can anyone help?
     

    Attached Files:

  2. cefuroxx

    cefuroxx Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 7, 2004
    Posts:
    473
    Trophy Points:
    111
    Likes:
    +0
    heat it up with a soldering iron and yank on it a bit, should come out eventually
     
  3. Methos

    Methos ...Hail Megatron

    Joined:
    May 7, 2003
    Posts:
    1,587
    Trophy Points:
    161
    Likes:
    +0
    But becareful as you can melt the plastic if you heat it too much.
     
  4. MECHADOOM

    MECHADOOM I'm Doombot and I know it

    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2004
    Posts:
    1,728
    Trophy Points:
    177
    Likes:
    +2
  5. Detour

    Detour TFWiki.net, use it!

    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2007
    Posts:
    438
    News Credits:
    2
    Trophy Points:
    76
    Likes:
    +2
    Problem, though:
    Megatron's rivet tip sticks out and has a good layer of glue on it. It's also on a thin piece of plastic, which might break.
    (I wanna keep it intact because I have a friend interested in acquiring it for one of his customs)
     
  6. SMOG

    SMOG Vocab-champion ArgueTitan

    Joined:
    May 13, 2006
    Posts:
    17,583
    Trophy Points:
    297
    Location:
    Robot Narnia, Quebec
    Likes:
    +73
    Without a soldering gun handy, I've found that sometimes I can pull pins like this simply by boiling a pot of water, pouring it into a bowl, and letting the plastic pieces soak for a minute. It softens up the plastic enough that you can often pull the head off the pin by exerting some strong, gradual pressure.

    zmog
     
  7. Detour

    Detour TFWiki.net, use it!

    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2007
    Posts:
    438
    News Credits:
    2
    Trophy Points:
    76
    Likes:
    +2
    Dumb question, but can you put it back in with the same technique?
     
  8. Methos

    Methos ...Hail Megatron

    Joined:
    May 7, 2003
    Posts:
    1,587
    Trophy Points:
    161
    Likes:
    +0
    Yes,but don't use quite as much heat doing it.
     
  9. REDLINE

    REDLINE longer days, plz? Veteran

    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2004
    Posts:
    27,867
    News Credits:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    296
    Likes:
    +3
    the risk you have with boiling the plastic is that when you squeeze it to pull on the rivet, you risk deforming the part. I'd MUCH rather simply heat the pin directly. It doesn't HAVE to be a soldering iron either. When I first started, I used a wood burner. Either way you go, you're only gonna spend 10-15 bucks if you don't have one.
     
  10. Massdestruction

    Massdestruction Instrument of Destruction

    Joined:
    Aug 22, 2006
    Posts:
    316
    Trophy Points:
    122
    Likes:
    +5
    I recently had this problen when I wanted to put the Unicron head (minus the horns) onto an executioner type bash I'm working on. I decided not to risk the head and made a one time mold of it instead.

    I used sculpting/modeling clay (the tan kind that hardens on its own when not kept moist). then I filled the mold with Mighty Putty. Bam, a copied head. The clay will need to be broken off of the mighty putty, unfortunately destroying the mold. Clay that is stuck can be removed with water and a toothbrush.

    That is how I made my copied head. I know it isn't how most people would make molds, but it is a cheap way to get the job done. The clay is about $8 for a large brick (enough for many moldings) and the Mighty Putty is only $10 for 3 tubes (enough for many, many heads).

    So that's my 2 cents. Since you are planning to modify the helmet anyway, this just may do the trick.
     
  11. SMOG

    SMOG Vocab-champion ArgueTitan

    Joined:
    May 13, 2006
    Posts:
    17,583
    Trophy Points:
    297
    Location:
    Robot Narnia, Quebec
    Likes:
    +73
    I've tried heating the pin, but it's never really worked that well for me.

    My suggestion above was not to actually BOIL the part (which is risky, I admit), but just pouring a cup of freshly boiled water, and letting the piece steep a minute in that. No worse than a hot cup of coffee. :) 

    It still takes some tugging to get the part out... but so far so good. You can usually force the pin back in afterward, but it won't be quite as solid as before.

    That's actually a great idea! What exactly IS this Mighty Putty stuff. I don't think I've ever seen it.

    zmog
     
  12. Detour

    Detour TFWiki.net, use it!

    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2007
    Posts:
    438
    News Credits:
    2
    Trophy Points:
    76
    Likes:
    +2
    The mold thing would have been a good idea, but I REALLY want to keep those light-piped eyes for Bludgeon's awesomeness factor...

    I'll try the boiled water thing. I've used it before on some GIJoe projects before but it was usually to reshape a warped piece (because Hasbro loved to stretch out hands by putting weapons in them inside the package).
     
  13. Massdestruction

    Massdestruction Instrument of Destruction

    Joined:
    Aug 22, 2006
    Posts:
    316
    Trophy Points:
    122
    Likes:
    +5
    It's an epoxy putty. It's available at most department stores like Sears and Target in the "as seen on TV" sections at 3 tubes for $9.99. It's also available to order at Mightyputty.com at 6 Tubes for $19.99. Additional info can be found at that website.

    It's easy to use, molds/sculpts very well and can be sanded and cut with a x-acto if needed. It's not really sticky to work with, unlike many epoxy products. The only downside is that it begins hardening within a few minutes.

    An example of my work with it would be my SWTF Megatron. The face was molded from a SWTF Han Solo and the helmet was molded from a Megatron pop holder. SWTF-Megatron
     
  14. SMOG

    SMOG Vocab-champion ArgueTitan

    Joined:
    May 13, 2006
    Posts:
    17,583
    Trophy Points:
    297
    Location:
    Robot Narnia, Quebec
    Likes:
    +73
    Thanks... I should check that out. I used to have a brick of clay... but I'm sure I lost that ages ago.

    It's kind of hard to see in your Megatron pics... how sharp can you get the final mold? How well does the Mighty Putty hold the detail?

    zmog
     
  15. Massdestruction

    Massdestruction Instrument of Destruction

    Joined:
    Aug 22, 2006
    Posts:
    316
    Trophy Points:
    122
    Likes:
    +5
    Well, in the copy I made of the C-Unicron head, every tooth was visible even after painting. So I'd say it holds the detail very well. And when using an x-acto knife to refine the hardened piece, you can get nice sharp edges. Also, in case you were wondering, unlike Sculpty, when done hardening, it is very hard but still able to be cut and sanded.
     

Share This Page