Customs: HERE IS WHERE I get great LEDs

Discussion in 'Creative General Discussion' started by encline, Jul 14, 2009.

  1. encline

    encline customizer of love TFW2005 Supporter

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  2. maninthebox94

    maninthebox94 Banned

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    too bad i don't have the skills to use them.
     
  3. Sentinel

    Sentinel TF Museum Curator Moderator News Staff

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    Hey, thanks for the link. I have gone to a few different Targets looking for those Blu-Ray cars and haven't been able to find them. This is a great source for all kinds of LEDs. Thanks again for the reference, now Prime will finally have the correctly colored eyes.
     
  4. StopMotionJR

    StopMotionJR Banned

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    I usually just go to radio shack, they have some there, I don't think they are as bright though, i'll have to take a look at these.
     
  5. autobotx23

    autobotx23 Banned

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    Thanks for sharing, big homie!
     
  6. encline

    encline customizer of love TFW2005 Supporter

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    You could!!
    The card is over by the blue ray discs....well, the should be
    I do when I need a square or rectangle one. But at $1.00-$4.00 compared to $6.00 for 100!!!!!

    Something this could should be shared!!!
     
  7. big hank

    big hank Resident Slacker-Basher

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    Last edited: Jul 14, 2009
  8. Oric

    Oric Well-Known Member

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    Ebay:
    WOW. Thank you!
     
  9. kingjovius

    kingjovius Well-Known Member

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    WOW.... now i just gotta find out how to putem in..........
     
  10. mampy

    mampy Movie-Accurate Mampy

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  11. joebot.

    joebot. ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)

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    I used to get mine at lsdiodes:rip  I have an old t-shirt of theirs.

    Thanks for a new source! How bright are these?
     
  12. big hank

    big hank Resident Slacker-Basher

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    There isn't any MCD rating that I can see in the auction. MCD is millicandella, the brightness rating for LEDs. Most of mine are in the 160-200 MCD range and very bright. As an example, at a couple feet a 100 watt light bulb is like 100-120 candellas, or 10000-12000 MCD.

    I have bought from these guys I believe, and my LEDs are nice and bright, too bright to be in scale in some cases.

    You can of course increase an LEDs brightness by increasing mA current (current, not voltage)

    Also as an alternative, you can buy LEDs that have a narrower projection of light, giving the perception of a brighter LED light where you need it. For example, the Tail lights on my Skids uses LEDs that project forward, the brightness significanlty decreases as you get off axis.

    Any how, don't get too caught up in brightness, from a modelers perspective, if you have a 1/32 car model (roughly Deluxe size) LEDs that are too bright can look out of place.
     
    Last edited: Jul 15, 2009
  13. encline

    encline customizer of love TFW2005 Supporter

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    Brightness? Look at my Prim in my sig. Those are powered off of three hearing aid batteries.
     
  14. big hank

    big hank Resident Slacker-Basher

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    Size A-10 batteries? They are about the smallest I've found!:thumbs2: 
     
  15. encline

    encline customizer of love TFW2005 Supporter

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    Hey big hank, what size wire do you use and where can I get some? All I can seem to find is 22 gauge. But I buy these sub micro switches and they have these tiny wires that are great. But can't seem to find them alone:( 
     
  16. big hank

    big hank Resident Slacker-Basher

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    If you have a good hobby shop that carries model Railroad stuff, they should have some 28 gauge stranded wire, that's small and the strands help keep integrity around bends and twists (somethind pretty much only TF kitbashers need to think of).

    I also use wire wrapping wire. Wire wrapping is a technique that doesn't involve soldering. Basically you use a tool to wrap multiple windings around your component (LED anode for example). It's an invaluable technique every hobbyist should explore. That aside, it's 32 gauge solid wire, the actual wire is about 2-3 hairs thickness with a very thin insulation on it. Though it's solid it has very good resilience to bends, I tend to use it more than the stranded 28 gauge.

    When I get home from work I'll snap some pics of each, and some installed pics so you can see how I approach using each. There are also some great alternatives to wire as well, I'll show you later!:thumbs2: 
     
  17. joebot.

    joebot. ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)

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    Thanks for the scale info. I never thought about that. I used to modify xboxes and wanted the brightest we could find. Old habits die hard I suppose
     
  18. big hank

    big hank Resident Slacker-Basher

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    Crash course!!!!

    Hey gang, back with some stuff that may be helpful, kinda directed at Encline and Joebot., but hopefully everybody can benefit from the knowlege.:thumbs2: 

    Let's start at picture 1. This is a comparison showing the 28 gauge stranded wire (black), the 32 gauge solid wire wrapping wire (red), a 3mm LED (you can compare the wires diameters to the LED'S anodes, or "legs"), another LED that is about 2mm but limited off axis projection (forward firing mostly), and finally that tiny spec on the right is an SMT LED!


    Pic 2 shows the same spec 3mm LED powered 3 ways to show how mA current and voltage can effect brightness. LED 1 (left) is powered by 3 volts with moderate current flow. LED 2 (middle) uses a larger 3 volt battery. Same 3 volts but more current amperage, note it's brighter. Finally on the right is LED 3, using three 3 volt batteries for a total of 9 volts and massive current amperage. This also demonstrates how LEDs can handle voltages much higher than the "spec" voltage rating (which is 2.6 volts for these 3mm LEDs)

    This kind of shows what I mean by scale. Which LED would you want in Deluxe BB's eyes? I'd choose the "weaker" of the three, as it scales better for the size of the figure.

    Remember that teeny tiny SMT LED? Pic 3 shows two amber SMT LEDs next to the 3mm blue LED for brightness comparisons. They were both powered by the same exact size battery so you can see size doesn't really matter for LEDs. It's all in the voltage and amperage.

    In pic 4 we go back to the wires. You can see here how I would typically use the 28 Gauge (black) wire and the 32 gauge (red and blue) wire wrapping wire. As you can see I use two colors to denote + and - poles, makes it a lot easier when running lots of wire! In this circuit I only needed to use the black stranded wire from the - battery terminal to the switch.

    Pics 5 & 6 just show the tail lights lit up with and without the room lighting on.

    What about alternatives to soldering? Glad you asked! You did ask right? Well in pic 8 we see the two alternatives to soldering and wire wrapping I use. Wire glue! Just like it sounds, this is an electrically conductive glue! Really it's best for repairing PCBs that are scratched, spot repairs on pinched wires, but it can be helpful for lots of stuff.

    The other item is copper tape! This stuff is the secret weapon! Designed primarily for shielding from RF interference, I got hooked on this stuff about 10 years ago! This is an actual copper foil that has adhesive on the back. Just peel it and use it where you need the connection! It comes two ways, with electrically conductive adhesive or non conductive adhesive, I use and recommend the CONDUCTIVE adhesive. you could tape an LED to a battery and it will light up! Check the final pic! Another very cool benefit to copper tape is you can actually solder to it as well. You will be seeing some of the wild applications for copper tape with a certain ROTF Sideswipe custom that's in the WIP stages!

    Whew! Well I hope I didn't bore you guys but wanted to put the info out there for everyone! Hope this doesn't distract from the original topic!:thumbs2: 
     

    Attached Files:

  19. encline

    encline customizer of love TFW2005 Supporter

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    That... Iss......great info my man.....

    Next question....where to purchase?

    I have some certain classic combiners that are in need of all this!!!!!
     
  20. big hank

    big hank Resident Slacker-Basher

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    Hmmm, let's see. I got the wire wrapping wire and wrapping tool at RadioShack of all places maybe 3-4 years ago. They come in good size spools that last forever. I think it was a fluke though because I've never seen them carry anything remotely like this stuff before or since. Can't remember the price, the wire was maybe 5-6 bucks per spool.

    The SMT LEDs you can get off Ebay, just put SMT LED in the search bar. They are a bit more costly that 3mm LEDs, expect to pay around 10-12 bucks for 50, but you can't beat 'em for tight spots! They ARE a pain in the rump to solder though, you will need to practice! I've been using them for about 3 years and still curse every time I solder one up! LOL!

    The wire glue you may find at RC hobby shop, my bottle is actually Xmods brand, so I know that's available. It's a 2 oz. bottle, maybe 8-9 bucks.

    The Copper tape is about 20 bucks for a 36 yard roll, it lasts forever too! I've been working off the same roll for well into 5 years now and I really have no clue where to find it nowadays. It comes it various widths, I prefer 1/4", it's the thinnest available at the time I bought it. I'd do 1/8" if I could find it again.

    I guess I wasn't really much help there bro, sorry! :eek: 
     

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