Customs: Help:How do I repaint 20th Optimus?

Discussion in 'Creative General Discussion' started by avc-prime, Feb 27, 2007.

  1. avc-prime

    avc-prime Well-Known Member

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    Well I got a reissue dvd prime, but the colors just kill the figure. I need help on to paint him.

    How do I take him apart?
    What paints to use?
    and brushes?

    any help is apreciated.

    here are some pics. what paint can i use to give it the chrome look?
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  2. Valkysas

    Valkysas Attack Buffalo

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    Screwdriver

    I personally prefer to use airbrushes. you'll want to clear-coat the paint as well, unless you want it scraping off really easily.

    brushes should only be used on small areas. on large areas, which prime is full of, you won't be able to avoid leaving brush marks everywhere. use brushes for detail work only.
     
  3. Valkysas

    Valkysas Attack Buffalo

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    Screwdriver

    I personally prefer to use airbrushes. you'll want to clear-coat the paint as well, unless you want it scraping off really easily.

    brushes should only be used on small areas. on large areas, which prime is full of, you won't be able to avoid leaving brush marks everywhere. use brushes for detail work only.
     
  4. StarFire_MK2

    StarFire_MK2 'Till All are One! TFW2005 Supporter

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    If you want greater durability, use semi or high-gloss paints. I'm fond of lacquer paints myself, as they give great durability, but some find them smelly--use adeqaute ventalation when spraying. Lighting sanding with 400, then 600 grit paper will help any paint you use stick better, too. Them, as Valkysas said, clear coat Prime (and again, I'd use a clear lacquer for this)
     
  5. StarFire_MK2

    StarFire_MK2 'Till All are One! TFW2005 Supporter

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    If you want greater durability, use semi or high-gloss paints. I'm fond of lacquer paints myself, as they give great durability, but some find them smelly--use adeqaute ventalation when spraying. Lighting sanding with 400, then 600 grit paper will help any paint you use stick better, too. Them, as Valkysas said, clear coat Prime (and again, I'd use a clear lacquer for this)
     
  6. Spekkio

    Spekkio Master of War

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    :stickies 
     
  7. Spekkio

    Spekkio Master of War

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  8. mx-01 archon

    mx-01 archon Well-Known Member

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    I'd like to make a note here that lacquers would probably be alright for 20th Prime, but I'd be wary of using them on other toys. Oil-based paints simply don't dry on softer plastics, remaining sticky forever. Prime is all hard plastic, though, so it should be alright (with the exception of Megatron's stock and the axe, but you shouldn't have to paint those, anyways).

    Acrylic model paints are a better bet for more general usage, though. And they're easier to clean up, too, needing only water or cleaning alcohol. Lacquers need highly toxic solvents to clean.
     
  9. mx-01 archon

    mx-01 archon Well-Known Member

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    I'd like to make a note here that lacquers would probably be alright for 20th Prime, but I'd be wary of using them on other toys. Oil-based paints simply don't dry on softer plastics, remaining sticky forever. Prime is all hard plastic, though, so it should be alright (with the exception of Megatron's stock and the axe, but you shouldn't have to paint those, anyways).

    Acrylic model paints are a better bet for more general usage, though. And they're easier to clean up, too, needing only water or cleaning alcohol. Lacquers need highly toxic solvents to clean.
     
  10. MacrossFA19

    MacrossFA19 That son of a bitch!!!

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    All depends. How much reapinting are we talking here? Sounds like you wanna do some touch ups, and not a scourge or a magnus. If you are doing a complete repaint, I would suggest:
    1. take him completely apart. A screwdriver should be all you need. Just remember where all the parts go. (I use a box with dividers that are labeled-"shoulder, for arm, leg...etc." so I don't mix up parts.
    2. It is normally best to sand or use paint remover on parts that are already painted.
    3. Mask the areas you don't want painted.
    4. have at it.
    As for paints I use Krylon fusion, Metals, testors, and tamaya paints. with these there is no need for an over coat. Just follw the directions on the can and the paints will be durable enough.
    I am no expert mind you, but I have done 2 primes, and they have lasted a long time. And I transform them like a 5 year old.

    Other than that:stickies 
     
  11. MacrossFA19

    MacrossFA19 That son of a bitch!!!

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    All depends. How much reapinting are we talking here? Sounds like you wanna do some touch ups, and not a scourge or a magnus. If you are doing a complete repaint, I would suggest:
    1. take him completely apart. A screwdriver should be all you need. Just remember where all the parts go. (I use a box with dividers that are labeled-"shoulder, for arm, leg...etc." so I don't mix up parts.
    2. It is normally best to sand or use paint remover on parts that are already painted.
    3. Mask the areas you don't want painted.
    4. have at it.
    As for paints I use Krylon fusion, Metals, testors, and tamaya paints. with these there is no need for an over coat. Just follw the directions on the can and the paints will be durable enough.
    I am no expert mind you, but I have done 2 primes, and they have lasted a long time. And I transform them like a 5 year old.

    Other than that:stickies 
     
  12. defstar

    defstar Autobot...

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    Just use the acrylic paints and brushes from walmart...they work well and are very inexpensive....

    It may take a couple coats if you're painting a light color on a dark surface...and remember to always cover with a semi-gloss sealer after paints applied...(note: acrylic is also easy to remove if you mess up...pre sealer though...once you seal the paint it's more work to remove)...
     
  13. defstar

    defstar Autobot...

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    Just use the acrylic paints and brushes from walmart...they work well and are very inexpensive....

    It may take a couple coats if you're painting a light color on a dark surface...and remember to always cover with a semi-gloss sealer after paints applied...(note: acrylic is also easy to remove if you mess up...pre sealer though...once you seal the paint it's more work to remove)...
     
  14. StarFire_MK2

    StarFire_MK2 'Till All are One! TFW2005 Supporter

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    I think you're confusing alkyd-based paints with lacquers. By definition, a lacquer-based paint is not oil-based, like alkyds, but lacquer-based. You're quite right in saying oil-based don't dry on plastics, be they soft or hard (I've tried both). In my experience, lacquers dry to the touch in 30 minutes, and are fully hard after 3 days, with absouletley no tackiness.

    Question for you acrylic and Krylon fans: how do you find the self-levelling features of each product? I've tried Krylon, and it produces an orange-peel effect on the plastic. Maybe I had a bad can, or is that simply how it works?
     
  15. StarFire_MK2

    StarFire_MK2 'Till All are One! TFW2005 Supporter

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    I think you're confusing alkyd-based paints with lacquers. By definition, a lacquer-based paint is not oil-based, like alkyds, but lacquer-based. You're quite right in saying oil-based don't dry on plastics, be they soft or hard (I've tried both). In my experience, lacquers dry to the touch in 30 minutes, and are fully hard after 3 days, with absouletley no tackiness.

    Question for you acrylic and Krylon fans: how do you find the self-levelling features of each product? I've tried Krylon, and it produces an orange-peel effect on the plastic. Maybe I had a bad can, or is that simply how it works?
     
  16. mx-01 archon

    mx-01 archon Well-Known Member

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    Oops, my bad. Yeah, that's right, I did get them swapped. However, if I'm not mistaken, lacquers essentially dry into a hard plastic shell. If that's the case, I still wouldn't recommend it for areas made of softer plastic (even ball joint sockets), because flexing them would result in the paint cracking.

    IIRC, that's caused by not letting the previous layer cure completely. Applying a new layer partially liquefies the old, and causes it to peel back. The drying time listed on the can is not the full time, it's only the duration needed for it to not be wet to the touch. It takes several days to a week for Fusion to fully cure.
     
  17. mx-01 archon

    mx-01 archon Well-Known Member

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    Oops, my bad. Yeah, that's right, I did get them swapped. However, if I'm not mistaken, lacquers essentially dry into a hard plastic shell. If that's the case, I still wouldn't recommend it for areas made of softer plastic (even ball joint sockets), because flexing them would result in the paint cracking.

    IIRC, that's caused by not letting the previous layer cure completely. Applying a new layer partially liquefies the old, and causes it to peel back. The drying time listed on the can is not the full time, it's only the duration needed for it to not be wet to the touch. It takes several days to a week for Fusion to fully cure.
     
  18. avc-prime

    avc-prime Well-Known Member

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    any critics?
     
  19. avc-prime

    avc-prime Well-Known Member

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    any critics?
     
  20. MegaMoonMan

    MegaMoonMan www.megamoonman.com TFW2005 Supporter

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    You mean those pics in the first post are the finished product?

    I don't know what you were trying to do, but unless you were going for a weathered/damaged look, it looks bad. The paint is very uneven and you can see brushmarks all over it.

    DO NOT use brushes on a figure this big...spray all the way.
     

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