Customs: Got Any Casting Tips?

Discussion in 'Creative General Discussion' started by Bobby Lemain, Sep 2, 2007.

  1. Bobby Lemain

    Bobby Lemain Cassette Man

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    I was at my local Michael's and I saw these next to the sculpey (I was looking for milliput but didn't find any...)
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I saw Boggs6ft7's mold-making thread a while back and after getting my Trailbreaker custom done, the non-translucent gray cassette "window" is starting to tick me off, so I decided to try my hand at recasting the KO window into a KO...KO window but this time, in translucent red.

    Has anyone used those? I already know about "alumiliite" but my funds can't afford that much of a hole at the moment and since it will just be a test run to see if it comes out any good, I thought I would try it.

    But firstly:
    -I do not have access to mold release and I need to know what I can use instead (would vaseline work?)
    -has any one used those things before? if so are they any good?

    and last of all, those two, including the hardening catalyst come up to 33ish (and if the thought of food coloring doesn't go too well then it will be 43).

    is there anything else I should know about this before I start?
     
  2. frenzyrumble

    frenzyrumble Banned

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    bleh, personally tried this stuff, and without molds and a release film, it's very tough to work with.

    when i was with McFarlane, we used super sculpey. I still use it now. It's the best for sculpting. form it into the shape you want.

    here's the trick...

    bake it...but only 1/2 the recommended time. A toaster over works good too. Low temp and maybe 5minutes per 5 oz.

    When you take it out, let it cool about 15. It's not 100% solid yet, which is what you want. At this state your mold is easy to fine tune, carve into, adjust, etc.

    Once it's perfect, throw it back in the over for the full time (15 minutes per 5oz.)

    wham.

    you'll be happy.
     
  3. Bobby Lemain

    Bobby Lemain Cassette Man

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    are you talking about the sculpey or the resin?

    if its about the resin, does it actually come out clear or is it bubbly like it usually is with out a vacuum? (the thread is about molding+casting+reproducing...)

    edit:
    holy poo! I did some research using the trusty google search engine, and wow...
    I'm more then amazed
    but the $45 price tag on the silicone isn't making me too happy... at least the plastic will come out nice (I just need to find myself one of those turkey basting syringes...) I am definitely going to try this on my cassette window.
     
  4. Wreckgar

    Wreckgar Anthony Stark Veteran

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    Someone elsewhere metioned Apoxy Scuplt. I have used Super Sculptythat frenzy rumble mentioned and like it well enough. Only problem is that it's sometimes hard to pull away fro mthe part you are casting. I've gotten many heads stuck and had to clean them up later.
     
  5. frenzyrumble

    frenzyrumble Banned

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    didn't realize you were aiming for a clear plastic finish. use the resin in that case, just make sure you add the correct proportions, and follow the directions...or bubbly city.
     
  6. Bobby Lemain

    Bobby Lemain Cassette Man

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    lol, I'd end up with bubbly tape decks.
     
  7. Boggs6ft7

    Boggs6ft7 TFW2005 Supporter

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    I've used that resin before with so-so results, it comes out transparent, but not crystal clear.

    As far as I know, when you use clear casting resin, it has to be put into a pressure pot to get the best results, otherwise you'll get streaks, fogging, and bubbles.

    Oh, and my casting project is still going, I just had a setback in that one of my masters got damaged and I'm in the process of repairing it.
     
  8. Bobby Lemain

    Bobby Lemain Cassette Man

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    good, since I'm dying it red I think being transparent will pass well enough when not under scrutiny but that means (unless I polish the plastic) I won't ever be able to make a good enough repro-soundwave door.
     
  9. Greenshadow0

    Greenshadow0 Well-Known Member

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