By Generation: Generations Leader Jetfire - Various Modifications

Discussion in 'Tutorials and How Tos' started by Superquad7, Sep 21, 2014.

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  1. Superquad7

    Superquad7 We're only human. Super Mod

    May 19, 2003
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    For many figures, several of our members not only enjoy posting their thoughts in our Feedback forum, but occasionally they'll add different modifications made. The feedback thread for Generations Jetfire is certainly one such figure. Below, you'll find several different modifications and some instructions on how to perform these:

    When responding to creating wrist swivels, 9.8m/s^2 posts:

    "I sawed off his hands and filled them and the wrists with Apoxie Sculpt and industrial epoxy weld. I then drilled (starting small and working up to a 1/8" bit) holes in the hands and wrists. I made shafts using 4mm tube styrene reinforced with a brass core, and then hammered them into the wrists. The hands twist right on, stay firmly, and are extremely sturdy. I thought about using ball joints, but I didn't like the gap between the hand and wrist; still, it's an option if you want even more hand poseability.

    All the materials are part of my standard modding toolbox, and most are available at any good hobby shop. In particular, I highly recommend the Xacto micro saw; it's probably my favorite tool for precise amputations.

    I still need to paint over the cured Apoxie to finish it out, but here, you can see which parts were filled and drilled. The messy exposed tubing and cuts are invisible once the hand's attached."​


    tb-1599 posts:

    "I moved the main cannon mount from under the nose cone to another location. I tried super glue but the super glue wasn't really holding the connector in place. Sooo what I ended up using was a really small flat head wood screw (from an old wood project kit [that was] part of a hinge) that worked perfectly.":


    "I finished the plug for under the nose. I de-chromed and painted the weapons. (not my best paint job but oh well). His main rifle now sits under the fuselage (Macross style). The only downside is he can't sit flush on his wheels with his cannon under him, but this will look good on a flight stand.":


    "I trimmed off the tail fins, [and] I did keep the go pack chromed. I like the way that looks.":


    TFW2005.COM member Sponge also assists here with the following:

    "First, a preface:
    This is my experience in taking apart the hip. You may not run into the same complications I did, however the usual methods employed in this disassembly may be outside of the comfort level of many. That being said, I welcome [you to try] anything that would make this easier. Also, I am not going to go over the methods themselves, specifically how to remove the pin/rivet because there are already tutorials posted.

    First, you have to remove the cap that’s covering the pin/rivet by prying under the square protrusions:


    Here is where I encountered my first hiccup, the flathead that holds everything in place broke off after heating it for removal and applying pressure:


    This is where there is glue, so take proper measures to avoid breakage after you unscrew the back and get the pin/rivet out. I went in blind and ended up breaking one of the pegs, but it still holds fine:


    Here I've highlighted the connection that I believe is responsible for all the issues. Because the ratchet is very stiff, it can cause this connection to loosen somewhat (or if it was set wrongly in the factory, it makes the ratchet appear out of alignment):


    Here is how the ratchet sits in the hip:


    If you don’t have to, I wouldn’t take the hip apart. I will say that despite the pinhead breaking off, it still holds onto the pillar very well. It transforms and stands up just fine.

    I hope this helps!"​

    Some more advice added by a few members:

    sixpointsinspace says:

    "I'm going to suggest something kind of crazy for filler. Amazon sells this magic plastic stuff:

    [​IMG] InstaMorph - Moldable Plastic - 12 oz.

    Basically, you put it in boiling water and it becomes melt-y and moldable. It sets a nice white color and, if you mess up, it’s easy to remelt and try again. Smooth the surface of fingerprints or whatever [with] a quick dip back in boiling water. Using a pocket lighter carefully will also smooth it out. If you are handy with tinting colors, you can probably make this work with other figures, too. This stuff does take tint very well.

    If you really want to fill in gaps cheaply, this would be an easy way to do so. When my figure comes, it’s what I plan to. Amazon sells a smaller size for around $10 shipped as well, but this is the size I bought for other projects.

    A more expensive alternative would [be to] mix some resin up that sets in white (or tint it white) and pour it into the gaps pretty easily. I think the InstaMorph Moldable Plastic is probably easier and safer, though."

    RocketPunchArmy adds:

    "If you think Jetfire's hands suck, then maybe you might like what I did and I will show you how to do it":

    If you are wondering more about the hand modification, Volney comes to your rescue:

    "I did a few modifications: new hands, fastpack, thigh fillers, cut wing fins, and chrome removal":



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    Last edited: Jan 30, 2015
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