Non-TF: General Grievous - Bandai 1/12

Discussion in 'Radicons Customs' started by CowboyFromHell, Sep 15, 2018.

  1. CowboyFromHell

    CowboyFromHell Use my third party

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    Steel acrylic dry brush on the skeleton, starship filth oil paint for the plate parts. Used a needle for the scars, hardest part was to paint the damn thing without rubbing paint off as I'm painting it cuz oil paint takes forever to dry. Finished with matte clear coat after 2 weeks of drying.

    General Grievous - Bandai 1/12 model kit

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  2. asphalt

    asphalt King of the road

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    nice work. May I ask, why oils?
     
  3. SPLIT LIP

    SPLIT LIP AKA Beve Stuscemi

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    Looks incredible! I really need to pick this kit up, it's been sitting in my Amazon cart for a week.
     
  4. CowboyFromHell

    CowboyFromHell Use my third party

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    Good question! A few reasons. In my personal experience, for most weathering, oil is the way to go as it allows for more control. It spreads and blends smoothly, you can go thicker or thinner depending on the depth you want, you can literally re-do a part as many times as you want since it doesn't dry for days/weeks. Good examples are Grievous face you can see more and less depth of weathering. It's deeper under the eyes and around the jaw, and on the scars it's pretty thick too. I actually spent a few days (a few hours total) just on the face.

    Also the top edges of the top back plates you can see how the oil streaks down and blends into the rest of the weathering. For streaky oil drip type effects, it's super easy to control and to get how you want since you can start over at will. Just qtip the sucker and start over. No need for thinner or anything.

    It does stain the plastic right off the bat so yeah there's that. But the stain is actually real nice. I use a combination of just the stain and go thicker/deeper in different areas as you can see in the pics.

    Acrylic, you put it on and it's there. You can't do much fadding or depth effects. Acrylic I like for full on painted parts, and dry brushing.

    Also a side note, I haven't done panel lines with a wash on this one, but thinned down oil paint beats acrylic wash hands down. No contest. Oil panel lines are super deep and full compared to acrylic. The thinner, being turpentine, is quite abrasive though, so you need to consider how the wash will eat a bit at whatever's under there.. I always do a solid layer of clear coat before panel lining with oil wash. It litteraly runs into the lines so your intrusion points are minimal and you can easily make it work quite well without stripping anything next to the lines where your brush makes contact.

    ***Note, there's a million ways to do a million things, I'm just saying all this is from my personal experience and that's what works for me. Those are my thoughts on that!

    Get it! It fits in great with figuarts.
     
  5. shiftypenguin

    shiftypenguin Fancy-Pantsless Dancer

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    Wow! He looks amazing! Nice work!
     
  6. Leopard5

    Leopard5 Human in disguise

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    What clear coat did you use to seal the paint?
     
  7. CowboyFromHell

    CowboyFromHell Use my third party

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    Vallejo matte clear with a tiny bit of thinner. It says on the bottle to add water but water actually adds a gloss which is stupid if you want matte.

     
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  8. My BaLl JoInTs ArE lOoSe

    My BaLl JoInTs ArE lOoSe Well-Known Member

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    "A fine addition to your collection."

    The weathering really looks convincing!
     

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