(Original source: Flight Stands: How To) Submitted by Prem1x of Toyark.com: "Note: These stands are intended for 1/18th figures, but the dimensions can be increased for larger sizes. Also, this is more of a how to than a tutorial since there are no step-by-step pics. I created my own flight stands after I got a hold of some Protech stands and decided that I liked them. I didn't know much about gluing acrylic but it seemed pretty simple to attach some arms to the stand. I just followed a video on Youtube to learn to glue. YouTube - How to glue Acrylic I found a local plastic supply store that would sell retail. I just walked in, told them what I wanted, they cut it and I bought the plastic, glue, applicator there then went to Home Depot to pick up some screws. I bought one 5' rod of 1/4" extruded acrylic in square shape. I also bought 1' of rod in half-circle shape that came in 1" diameter. At the Depot I bought a $1 package of screws and nuts. It took me about an hour to make the two stands in the picture. The supplies I used to make one are: 1 clear Protech stand with 3/32 peg (new style) 1 3" extruded acrylic rod, square, 1/4" 1 4" extruded acrylic rod, square, 1/4" 1 1" quarter-circle acrylic rod cut into 1/4" length 2 #4-40 x 3/4 machine screws w/pan (i.e. round) head and nuts 1 rubber band or twist tie Tools needed: Hack saw with fine teeth (preferably a fresh blade) Hand-held drill (or drill press) 7/64 drill bit Acrylic glue Acrylic glue applicator (needle point) Small screwdriver (flat blade) 6mm wrench (optional) (or whatever size the nuts are) 1. Cut (one): First, cut the rod. You can go with different lengths with the rod instead of 3"-4". Longer or shorter. I think I might have been able to go 5" on them. 2. Cut (two): Cut 1/4" off of the half-circle rod. Then cut it in half again so you have 2 quarter circles of 1/4" length. You can use the second piece for the next stand you do. 3. Drill (one): Drill a hole towards the top of the quarter circle piece. After drilling a hole or two, you should find a nice slow drill speed that doesn't melt the plastic and leave your bit stuck in the plastic. Also, its best to go slow so the bit doesn't slide around while you're trying to get started. This is where a press comes in handy. 4. Glue: Glue the original shiny side of the quarter circle down on the top of the Protech stand on the side opposite the peg. This lets you stand another figure below your flying one, perhaps defending itself. 5. Drill (two): Drill holes for the screws in ends of the longer rod. Drill one hole in the end of the shorter rod. 6. Notch: Either drill a notch in the other end of the short piece (this is tricky), or use a hack saw to saw two close cuts half way through and break out the tang that is left to leave the notch (this is easier but takes longer). 7. Assemble: Now the glue should have dried enough to assemble the rods to the base with the two screws and nuts. Use the screwdriver and wrench as needed. The screws should be tight enough to still let the arms move and not loosen. 8. Attach! Attach a figure with either a rubber band or a twist tie (from garbage bags) like in the picture. These are the steps I left out: i. You can polish the cuts you made so that they are shiny. I did not have any MAP gas lying around (only propane). See the Youtube vid about for help. ii. You can make you own base from acrylic sheet instead of using a Protech stand as a base. The stands appear the be 1/8" thick and 2" in diameter. A custom 3" by 3" square would probably be good. iii. It may even be possible to order 3/32" rod and glue your own pegs to the sheet that you bought in step ii. Make your own stands! The glue essentially chemically melts the plastic together, so I imagine it would be strong enough. (I am sure the Protech pegs are from the molds though.) iv. It would be great to figure out how to get the nuts to stay put while pivoting the arms. Its only a nuisance Perhaps if I heated them up, they might melt themselves in place. v. The end with the notch and the attaching method needs some work. The tip may need to be rounded or have a rubber end to give friction to the figure while posing it. Custom making a spring-loaded claw is out of my league. If the figure had back holes, it would be simple additional step to have a round tip to spear them with."