Customs: Fixing YELLOWed plastic

Discussion in 'Creative General Discussion' started by Soundblaster1, Oct 31, 2007.

  1. Soundblaster1

    Soundblaster1 The Heisenberg of Toys

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    I'm only asking because the plastic in question feels different than the typical G1 Jetfire, Metroplex, or Wheeljack usually inquired about. And it's light grey.

    The figure in question: Choro-Q Megatron

    Anyone with the figure and some knowledge of stuff know how to fix the yellowing while still maintaining the shiny nature of the plastic?
     

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  2. MegaMoonMan

    MegaMoonMan www.megamoonman.com TFW2005 Supporter

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    Sanding and buffing it back to a shine is pretty much your only option. I've done it, and it works. It works well if the yellow is on the surface, but if it has penetrated any deeper you are likely screwed.

    People have claimed things like toothpaste will work, but I've tried it and it didn't work. You have to physically remove the yellowed plastic, there is no magic fix that will make it the original color.
     
  3. Soundblaster1

    Soundblaster1 The Heisenberg of Toys

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    Buff by hand or with a power buffer? The latter is a little out of my reach at this point.
     
  4. Valkysas

    Valkysas Attack Buffalo

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    my choro-q megatron is brown. I never had it in sunlight. it turned brown in it's box. wtf.
     
  5. MegaMoonMan

    MegaMoonMan www.megamoonman.com TFW2005 Supporter

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    Buy a fingernail buffer kit that has different boards with coarse, light, and rubberized buffer grains. They sell them at most regular stores like Target and Walmart.

    Work on the stain with the coarse grain for awhile, if you see the yellow coming off, move on to the lighter grain, and finally the buffer. It takes some work, but if you do it right and take your time nobody will know you had to do it.
     
  6. Soundblaster1

    Soundblaster1 The Heisenberg of Toys

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    Mine got this bad after being in storage in the box... Had I found it any later, I'd call it brown. Now its just YELLOW.

    Time to keep it loose again. (I've had it like 3 years... Of all that time, 2 years and 8 months were spent loose. 4 months of MIB killed it. It was perfect when I re-boxed it last time)

    I'll see if my mom/sister has one or needs one and is willing to let me use it. They can't be too much, and definitely not as much as a new Megs.
     
  7. Methos

    Methos ...Hail Megatron

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    I think the toothpaste as to do with the type of plastic used same with vinegar.
    On some of my gundam model kits I used vinegar with a green scrubbing pad to remove the yellow.
     
  8. Kouri

    Kouri kupo

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    ... Acid and an abrasive material? I think that's the same removing the yellow plastic with a buffing pad. ^^;
     
  9. turboedguy

    turboedguy minibotologist

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  10. frenzyrumble

    frenzyrumble Banned

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    try some bleach-white it's the stuff in a spray bottle designed to restore the white line on a tire. This removes any yellowing on plastic. This product will also remove the finish on the plastic however - which means you will need to buff the plastic afterwards.
     
  11. Cinemastique

    Cinemastique Earth Culture Specialist

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    Nmind...
     
  12. Superquad7

    Superquad7 We're only human. Super Mod

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  13. turboedguy

    turboedguy minibotologist

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    Yup, I tried it on 3 different Macross winged Matsushiro Jetfires today, with common 3% found for under a buck at any grocery store.

    The results are amazing! I did notice that direct sunlight is important, its not just the heat, the yellowed parts need to be facing the sunlight as much as possible. The one that was yellowed least is almost bone white, while the worst, basically a lemon colored junker before, should be done tomorrow if the sun is shining. I also see no effect on the plastic, stickers, or paint!
     
  14. Superquad7

    Superquad7 We're only human. Super Mod

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    Keep us posted :wink: 
     
  15. Bruticus82

    Bruticus82 Well-Known Member

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    This is amazing news for everyone! While I personally don't have that many sun-damaged pieces, but I notice in the linked thread the OP uses it on pretenders to eliminate some of the "splotchy" marks they get on the softer rubber parts. I could really use that.
     
  16. iDarkDesign

    iDarkDesign Rodeo Lawyer

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    There's a thread in the toy forum on H2O2 (30%). It works miracles! but is only in a testing fase right now.

    iDD
     
  17. turboedguy

    turboedguy minibotologist

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    Alright, most the parts on my Jetfires are bone white, there are a few that I soaked again today, and still aren't perfect, but the very worst piece is still MUCH better than it was. I did leave the worst Jetfire in overnight and the red paint started to loose its gloss, but I buffed the shine back pretty easly. The screws and metal parts were also affected, I left a few pieces together and a couple screws started to rust, and the metal shoulder joint parts started to get eaten, and it turned the peroxide milky in that jar, the others Jars had no metal, and the peroxide was still crystal clear. I think if I made a platform that kept the parts elevated above the peroxide so they aren't submerged, I could keep the screws and metal parts together, and possabily keep the entire figure together. It seems that the parts that are above the water line still get whitened, so I might try that tomorrow.
     

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