Customs: First Custom TF: Couple of Q's

Discussion in 'Creative General Discussion' started by simplygriff, Mar 31, 2010.

  1. simplygriff

    simplygriff µ - Elitist Dick

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    So I'm deep in the middle of my first custom TF. A simple re-paint and headswap. I've done other custom figures in the past but never tackled a TF because honestly back in the day I had no idea how to avoid paint rub. I'm still trying to get it figured out. That leads me to my first question:

    1. Will a simple clear coat on prevent paint transfer? I've got some parts that are different colors that when they touch, are transferring colors to each other.

    1a. If so, do I need to clear both parts that are rubbing or will clearing 1 suffice?

    2. Do you guys paint every part of a TF? The figure I'm working on has parts that are buried in Bot mode and invisible in alt mode so I'm kinda undecided as whether I should try to paint them. Feels kinda incomplete to not do it, but could cause more transfer issues if I do.

    3. Anyway to renew a synthetic brush (I think it's synthetic, white bristles, designed for acrylics) that's had acrylic paint dried into it?
    I know, I know You're supposed to keep it wet. I was painting the majority of the alt mode and all but the tips of couple of my brushes dried out. Washing with simple soap and water has helped a bit but the brushes still have a fair amount of paint stuck deep inside.

    Thanks in advance!
    -G
     
  2. Autobot Burnout

    Autobot Burnout SANTARN IS COMING AGAIN TFW2005 Supporter

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    Possibly, it depends on what kind of paints you are using. I've never had this problem, so other Radicons will have to help you here.

    You can, but most of the time you can get away with not painting all the parts. As long as you paint what's visible, people will think the part in question is totally painted when in reality it's not.

    Case in point: the interior sides of a Movie Swindle-based custom of mine are still the stock colors that they were when I first got the toy. However, the outer sides are painted, and the non-painted sides are hidden by the toy's chest cannon, so it looks like the whole part is painted when in reality it's only partialy painted. Since I never transform the figure much, the problem of the non-painted parts sticking out are minimal at best.

    I mostly use water-based paints, so this problem does not really happen to me, but I'd think one would just need to use lots of elbow grease to clean it, but I could be wrong.
     
  3. simplygriff

    simplygriff µ - Elitist Dick

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    Thanks for the quick response!

    Sorry, I should have mentioned the paint specs. I'm using Testors Acryl paints all the way around. The transfer issue is between a gloss orange and flat dark green. The orange is leaving some specks on the green. The flat green paint is what's stuck in my brushes.

    Another question that just popped up (that I should know the answer to) and might answer my first question...

    Does gloss paint take longer to cure? Could be that it wasn't completely cured when I tried to TF it. Thus leading to the transfer. What's average cure time for Gloss acrylic paint vs. Flat?

    -G
     
  4. Tigertrack

    Tigertrack Back In The Game!

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    I think both gloss and flat paint's cure at the same rate. However, flat colors appears to dry faster. Drying and curing I believe are a little different. What might be dry to the touch, might not be dry enough to handle.
    It's generally a good tip to allow 24-48 hours for a part to dry before really handling it. If it's a part you can sort of finger around with where your handling it, but not really touching it, you can probably handle it in a few hours.
    I have only delt with enamels and with model car kit's. I can't say anything about acrylic's though. I would think acrylic would take longer to cure than enamels.

    You might want to find a spot on the part to poke a tiny hole in, say for a T-pin so you can hold onto the part while painting it and set it aside to dry.
     
  5. QmTablit

    QmTablit Disguise: Check. Robot...

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    It should, but I'd suggest checking out the tutorial on Future Floor Finish.
    Put a coat over both. Put a coat over everything that gets painted.
    I paint what needs to be painted. If it's the entire body, then it's the entire body getting painted. If I already have black parts that are going to be black in the end, then I may not paint it over. Unless I want a different look to it, going from glossy to matte or vice-versa, but I would probably do that with a clear paint.
    I don't know if my brushes are synthetic or not, but I clean them in 99% isopropyl alcohol.
    I don't imagine that that would be a factor. Like what's been said, just give it a day or two and it should be good regardless.
     
  6. simplygriff

    simplygriff µ - Elitist Dick

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    Thanks for the help folks. Gonna try to have this thing knocked out by the weekend. :thumb 
    -G
     
  7. Superquad7

    Superquad7 We're only human. Super Mod

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    It sounds like you've gotten some great advice so far. Keep us posted on your progress! :thumb 
     
  8. AutoCon2076

    AutoCon2076 Brightest can in toolshed

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    In regards to the painting questions, I've just recently gotten back into the fray. I'm not a pro, but my repaints look quite nice. Firstly it helps to have duplicate brushes. There's three brush styles out of like eleven that I favor. Those are the ones I've doubles of.

    You needn't worry about a duplicate most of the time, but if you're going from a light color to a dark one (or versa-vice) it doesn't hurt to have a clean brush. While using the second allow the first brush to sit in some 91% isorpropyl alcohol. Personally I like to put some of the alcohol into a soda cap and use that to clean the brush. Simply 'paint' the threads on the inside of the cap. The alcohol and the ridges will knock out any paint that built up within the bristles. Then rinse it off in water and let it dry.

    That's what I do, and it's worked for me so far. (http://www.tfw2005.com/boards/radicons-customs/296562-shattered-glass-hound.html is an example. My 2nd figure painted)

    ~Z
     
  9. simplygriff

    simplygriff µ - Elitist Dick

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    Good tip!! I've been saving bottle caps to use to mix tiny amounts of custom paint colors in. Didn't think about using the threads to clean brushes. Also I agree on the duplicate brushes thing. Having to go clean my brushes every time I need to switch colors is getting old. Gotta go hit the Hobby Lobby again...

    Thanks a lot! :thumb 
    -G
     
  10. simplygriff

    simplygriff µ - Elitist Dick

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    At the risk of making myself out to be a complete moron I figured out my issues with my brushes and paint this AM. I was using enamel paint. :eek:  With acrylic brushes and trying to clean with soap and water vs. solvent. :banghead: 

    On the shelf at the store it was in the spot where the acrylic should have been and since this was the first custom anything I'd done in probably 8 years I didn't realize the odd smell and thicker texture wasn't normal. Then I tried to thin some out with water this AM. Whoops. Looked at the bottle and it's ModelMasters Enamel. FAWK!!! Oh well. Live and learn. I've got it looking decent for brushed on enamel but damn. Thanks for the assistance guys. This project's nearly done and the next is already in the works and I checked this AM. The paint I bought for that is all Acryl. :lol 
    -G
     
  11. Superquad7

    Superquad7 We're only human. Super Mod

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    griff, yeah, that's an honest mistake since the bottles are virtually identical except for the tiny writing.

    As for your brushes, just get some paint thinner and soak those brushes in. After the enamel gunk is out of them completely, simply wash in warm, soapy water and you're good to go again :) 
     

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