Customs: Filling styrene? How??

Discussion in 'Creative General Discussion' started by wasp819, Jul 15, 2009.

  1. wasp819

    wasp819 L-I-V-I-N

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    Basically i will be making a new chest for a certain animated fig, i will be doing this with styrene (i have no experiance with this stuff tho)
    When the chest is done i was thinking of filling it in to make it a solid block (should make it more durable)
    Q1. What stuff would be the best for this and will it expand when it dries
    Q2. Is there any special glue i should be using when attatching the various bits of styrene together
    Q3. Would the filling putty or what ever it called stick/bond to plastic
    Q4. When this stuff dries is it possible to drill into it without cracking it, if so then i could put a ball socket joint in there
    PLease help with any of my questions
    Cheeeeeers.
     
  2. Satomiblood

    Satomiblood Prototype Black

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    I use apoxie sculpt to fill in the hollow parts of my styrene work. Apoxie and styrene bond very well together. Apoxie also bonds to plastic very well.

    As for gluing styrene together, I've always used super glue. Model and craft cement doesn't work with styrene in my experiences. The cement has a tendency to break down styrene. I once had a similar experience with that 2-part epoxy, but they may have been to my not mixing it properly. But the Apoxie does just as good a job - perhaps better - of keeping bits of styrene together.

    Styrene holds up pretty well as long as it is secured in place and re-enforced. You can sand it, drill it, paint on it, and water won't break it down in any way.
     
  3. Boggs6ft7

    Boggs6ft7 TFW2005 Supporter

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    I agree with going with apoxi-sculpt to fill in large areas. If they are thin areas, then those can be filled in with putty, like Tamiya putty, but if its a large deep area, it tends to not harden.

    As for glue, I like to use Plastruct liquid. Its basically Methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) with some other stuff. It melts the parts together, parts need to be clean and you usually hold the parts together and then apply the glue with the brush that it comes with, capillary action draws it into the joint the the two parts are joined. Sometimes clamps or rubberbands need to be used to hold the parts together. The bond is quick, but you need to wait an hour or so before it gets to fully strength. For large parts I just wait a day to be safe, it makes the styrene very soft so its easy to mess up your joint.

    Be sure to use it in a WELL VENTILATED area, the fumes are brutal.
     
  4. big hank

    big hank Resident Slacker-Basher

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    Is that Plastene by Plasruct? I just picked some up and haven't opened it up yet. I usually use Jet brand Cyano Acrylate glues. They come in 3 viscosities (thicknesses) from watery to gel like.
     
  5. Boggs6ft7

    Boggs6ft7 TFW2005 Supporter

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    Might be, they are really all the same formula, but I've never seen a thicker vicosity other than th testors glue, and I hate that stuff.

    I like to use the cyan acrylate for gluing brass details to my models.
     
  6. big hank

    big hank Resident Slacker-Basher

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    Jet's thickest is not as thick as Testors model glue, I don't much care for that either.

    I use medium viscosity most of the time, has just enough thickness to not get caught up in the capillary action. When I need capillary action I use the regular, which is pretty much exactly like SuperGlue.
     
  7. Superquad7

    Superquad7 We're only human. Super Mod

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    I don't think that Testors glue would hold two pieces of paper together :lol  Yeah, you can tell I like the stuff too . . . . /sarcasm
     
  8. wasp819

    wasp819 L-I-V-I-N

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    Thanks for the info, im learning all the time.
    Q1 Does the apoxie sculpt come as 2 parts or 1?
    It seems that apoxie is quite expensive compared to epoxie so i might have to go with the 2 pt epoxie
    Q2 Does either expand when they set???
    Im not quite sure what you mean when you say "Styrene holds up pretty well as long as it is secured in place and re-enforced"
    Q3 When the apoxie/epoxie is set is it easy to drill into,carve etc..
    Thanks for any more info on this subject.
     
  9. wasp819

    wasp819 L-I-V-I-N

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    Oh and another question if i may,
    With reguards to glueing the styrene together would epoxy resin glue or the flex epoxy glue be any good??? and will the glue bond styrene and plastic well together???,
    Sprry to be a pain about these questions.
     
  10. Satomiblood

    Satomiblood Prototype Black

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    You can find some here: Apoxie Sculpt

    It comes in two parts that you have to mix together. There's a white and a gray compound that you have have to mix EQUAL part of for AT LEAST 2 MINUTES. Be sure you do this. Otherwise, it won't cure properly.

    The prices vary, but I think they're reasonable depending on how much you need.

    The 2-part epoxy I was referring to is actually a glue/adhesive. That's entirely different from APOXIE SCULPT, which is putty. It's essentially a self-hardening clay.

    Apoxie doesn't expand when it cures. Whatever amount you used will stay the same size once it's dry and workable.

    What I meant by making sure the styrene is secured is that if you plan on filling in the styrene and making it into a solid block, you'll have to make sure that the putty is fully cured. You'll want to wait a good 24 hours before you do any sanding or drilling.

    Yes, this stuff is waterproof. You can sand it, drill it, paint it, etc.
     
  11. Satomiblood

    Satomiblood Prototype Black

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    As I've said, I've personally used super glue and Apoxie Sculpt to keep bits of styrene together. Please refer to the suggestions others have made in this thread as their methods may be better and more conventional.

    As I've told people that are new to customizing and unsure of how things work, you can read these types of posts all day, and you can ask as many questions as you'd like, but you will never know unless you try. In other words, be prepared to make mistakes, experiment, and learn from the experience.
     
  12. wasp819

    wasp819 L-I-V-I-N

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    Thanks ever so much for the info dude, that has really helped me alot
    I do however have 1 last final question
    Q1 would you use plastic welder glue (the one that melts thin layers of both bits of plastic together) and could it be used safley on styrene
    That is seriously all i need to know.
    For now lol
     
  13. Satomiblood

    Satomiblood Prototype Black

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    Someone else will have to answer that.
     
  14. wasp819

    wasp819 L-I-V-I-N

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    Thanks for all the info, think im all set,
    Will be back to bug you when i run into problems and when i make mistakes lol
     
  15. anovasinn

    anovasinn THE PAINTS MUST FLOW!!!

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    no one likes testors glue because it takes 24 hrs to cure. however it is designed for styrene and welds the plastic together when used correctly. it does have a superior bond than super glue.

    however i do not use testors orange on kitbashes because usually you are bonding ABS and styrene this = FAIL. as far as what i do use i just use typical superglue bought anywhere IMO the stuff like jet that costs around $4.95 is no better at permanent bonds than the average super glue.

    also i use aves apoxie sculpt awesome stuff there :thumb 
     

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