Customs: Dying an entire figure.

Discussion in 'Creative General Discussion' started by SPLIT LIP, Mar 16, 2007.

  1. SPLIT LIP

    SPLIT LIP Dry built

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    Is it possible? I read the stick above and it only mentioned dying one part, what if you dunked the hole thing it?

    I was thinking of scooping up a 2nd Classics Starscream and just dye the entire guy blue and paint the appropriate parts silver, black etc...

    Would this be okay or is there a strong chance I could end up smelting him?

    I just don't want to spend $15 on a fig and then turn it into a plastic slab of melted blue-ness if I don't have to.

    If all goes good, I'll do Skywarp too.
     
  2. Night Flame

    Night Flame TFW2005 Supporter

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    You'd still want to take him apart or else you'll have darker and lighter parts where the various connections are at. Joints would look seriously messed up if you kept him together and just dunked him in. Trust me on that.
     
  3. Night Flame

    Night Flame TFW2005 Supporter

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    You'd still want to take him apart or else you'll have darker and lighter parts where the various connections are at. Joints would look seriously messed up if you kept him together and just dunked him in. Trust me on that.
     
  4. SPLIT LIP

    SPLIT LIP Dry built

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    What about pins? Would it still bust if I only took the screws out?
     
  5. SPLIT LIP

    SPLIT LIP Dry built

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    What about pins? Would it still bust if I only took the screws out?
     
  6. cobra zartan

    cobra zartan Think's He's a Detective.

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    Not true ive done it several times without taking anything apart and they have turned out great. Nothing looked messed up. I got the figure so everything was exposed and dunked him in.
     
  7. cobra zartan

    cobra zartan Think's He's a Detective.

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    Not true ive done it several times without taking anything apart and they have turned out great. Nothing looked messed up. I got the figure so everything was exposed and dunked him in.
     
  8. Night Flame

    Night Flame TFW2005 Supporter

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    Everything can't be exposed if you don't take them apart. The joints will have left-over spots of the original color. On some figures that might be OK, but I'm such a perfectionist that it drove me nuts on the one figure I tried it on. I've always taken them apart since then. At least on any joint that exposes and hides other parts as it moves.

    As for pins, depends on the toy. Some of them are fine with only breaking apart the ball joints. Some of them I've taken out every screw, every pin, and every connection point. Just look for places where parts slide over each other and take them apart if they do. The whole reason to use dye instead of paint is so those sliding points are colored and don't get scraped up.
     
  9. Night Flame

    Night Flame TFW2005 Supporter

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    Everything can't be exposed if you don't take them apart. The joints will have left-over spots of the original color. On some figures that might be OK, but I'm such a perfectionist that it drove me nuts on the one figure I tried it on. I've always taken them apart since then. At least on any joint that exposes and hides other parts as it moves.

    As for pins, depends on the toy. Some of them are fine with only breaking apart the ball joints. Some of them I've taken out every screw, every pin, and every connection point. Just look for places where parts slide over each other and take them apart if they do. The whole reason to use dye instead of paint is so those sliding points are colored and don't get scraped up.
     
  10. manyoufactsure

    manyoufactsure Maximal TFW2005 Supporter

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    It can be done but if any parts are touching, it will NOT take the dye or will be a lighter shade. If your going for a really dark color, just move the parts around and then redye. If you are trying for a lighter shade, then this will not work because you will darken the parts that have already been dyed. The clear (or yellow in the case of Starscream) windshield will not take the dye so you can leave that on too. I don't know about the flexible nose tip. I think that is pvc. Never tried dying that material yet

    Any time your dying something, keep the parts moving around in the pan so they do not get over heated and melt. You can remove the pan from the heat, before adding your parts, or turn the temp down after it starts to boil. But either way, keep the part moving with a spoon. I have one with slots so I don't scoop up a spoonful of dye when removing parts.
     
  11. manyoufactsure

    manyoufactsure Maximal TFW2005 Supporter

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    It can be done but if any parts are touching, it will NOT take the dye or will be a lighter shade. If your going for a really dark color, just move the parts around and then redye. If you are trying for a lighter shade, then this will not work because you will darken the parts that have already been dyed. The clear (or yellow in the case of Starscream) windshield will not take the dye so you can leave that on too. I don't know about the flexible nose tip. I think that is pvc. Never tried dying that material yet

    Any time your dying something, keep the parts moving around in the pan so they do not get over heated and melt. You can remove the pan from the heat, before adding your parts, or turn the temp down after it starts to boil. But either way, keep the part moving with a spoon. I have one with slots so I don't scoop up a spoonful of dye when removing parts.
     
  12. SPLIT LIP

    SPLIT LIP Dry built

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    I'm going for a dark blue Thundercracker, so it shouldn't be a problem.

    I thought you were only to submerge the part for a few seconds?
     
  13. SPLIT LIP

    SPLIT LIP Dry built

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    I'm going for a dark blue Thundercracker, so it shouldn't be a problem.

    I thought you were only to submerge the part for a few seconds?
     
  14. manyoufactsure

    manyoufactsure Maximal TFW2005 Supporter

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    The longer you leave it in the darker it will get. So, if you have to re-dye in order to dye any areas that didn't take (because they were touching) the other areas are going to get darker. You are better off just doing a little at a time. If you need it darker then try again but then you will have to diassemble it so all areas are dyed evenly.

    Try it out on some simular colored parts first. I let mine sit, after dipping, for a little while and then I rinse them off, to get the puddles out of the joints. (if dying a whole figure.)
     
  15. manyoufactsure

    manyoufactsure Maximal TFW2005 Supporter

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    The longer you leave it in the darker it will get. So, if you have to re-dye in order to dye any areas that didn't take (because they were touching) the other areas are going to get darker. You are better off just doing a little at a time. If you need it darker then try again but then you will have to diassemble it so all areas are dyed evenly.

    Try it out on some simular colored parts first. I let mine sit, after dipping, for a little while and then I rinse them off, to get the puddles out of the joints. (if dying a whole figure.)
     
  16. SPLIT LIP

    SPLIT LIP Dry built

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    Okay! Much thanks, now all I have to do is get another Starscream... oh what a joy that will be.:redface2: 
     
  17. SPLIT LIP

    SPLIT LIP Dry built

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    Okay! Much thanks, now all I have to do is get another Starscream... oh what a joy that will be.:redface2: 
     

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