I was wondering if someone has any tips on how to do a repaint of a Masterpiece seeker. Please forgive me I have no painting background so let's not get too technical. Given I don't have an art background, don't have an air spray paint brush. I am looking for the "simplest way" to do it that's safe and effective for basic needs. Initial Ideas: I was thinking of doing it by using Tamiya Flat Clear as a base and then Tamiya paint. I'm a bit concern the paint might be too thick and if one tries to transform it from one mode to another that things might get stuck together and possible break. I have a paint thinner i can add to the paint though so could this approach work? or I have some Gundam Markers which might be better since I hear the earlier version of the MP seekers like the Walmart exclusive Skywarp is more brittle than the newer mp style seekers that is mp-11. I like the earlier MP style seek in jet mode so that's why I'm thinking about using it. Ultimate Goal is to make it look like a Blue's Angels Color Seeker which was in the 80's transformer movie. The blue angels are cool unto themselves and it would offer a good compliment to Dirge on my desk in Jet mode and I can have them on both corners of it looking like they should be together.
You should probably post this to the Creative section of the forum. You’ll get a lot more help that way I don’t recommend Tamiya for wet brushing. But if you do use it, you will have to use thinner with it. Vallejo, Citadel (Games Workshop) are better for brushing. I also don’t recommend painting the MP right away. Experiment and practice with some other figures first, especially since you say you have no experience yet.
Thanks, I have re-posted it in that section. I have done other figures but depending on the plastic quality sometimes things work out sometimes not with Tamiya paint. I've had both Tamiya and Gundam eat away those plastic combiner war figures. So I have done at least 12 figures but that's not counting the half a dozen failures. (no art background but have limited experiences which have been trail and error like experience) What's vallejo and Citadel? Where can I get that?
I have great success with Testors acrylics (both Acryl and Model Masters series paints). They brush pretty well and are very durable. I would also suggest you practice on another figure first before taking on your MP. Be sure to wash the figure in dish soapy water and rinse and dry it well before painting.
Are you using not Acrylic Tamiya paints? They shouldn’t be eating away at the plastic. I have never used Gundam markers so I can’t comment on those. Vallejo is just another modeling paint company, should be available in most hobby shops, assuming you are in North America? Citadel paints are from Games Workshop.
I'm new so I didn't know that existed until they point it out in the post above. I don't know how to move a thread so as I said I created on there instead. To keep the Mod happy let's post replies there instead. Thanks: Customs: - Do it yourself repaint tips? I have used the Testor Acrylics before and they're not good for transformers. It's really thick. Gundam markers have only ruin one transformer it was partially my fault since I should of been more careful with how much was being applied in one area. It was the first time I had a problem with it so I didn't know it would ruin anything until that point. (CW Streetwise waist joint) All of my bad experiences have been with Hasbro's CW Figures who's plastic are of the lowest quality based on my limited experience since I have seen them break in unpainted areas just because the oil was absorbed somewhere else. (CW Swindle back joint). I've seen them melt / disintegrate UW streetwise arms too using the Tamiya Acrylic Paint. I have seen CW figures break b/c of Krylon paint too. (CW Prime's Combiner Chest Door hing and shoulder joint) I have repainted other figures like G1 Ultra Magnus into Delta Magnus and Nemesis Magnus (UW Scourge Colors) with zero problems. Much better plastic, no worries at all with them. No problem with KO OS CW (blue) Rook into Wandering Roller either but that was diecast.
@Ultra Magnus Combiner, no harm no foul, buddy; glad you're here sharing in our hobby. I'd also like to recommend our Tutorials section as well. There's TONS of tips there (well over 500 threads worth)!
Are you sure you’re using Tamiya acrylics and not their lacquer based paints? If it is the acrylic, are you using the appropriate thinner (if any)? Acrylic paint shouldn’t be eating away at the plastic. That just seems really strange to me. I’m not being a smart ass with these questions. I accidentally bought some cans of Tamiya lacquer based spray, and it ended up messing up a TLK Barricade pretty badly, also combined with the fact that I was spraying outside and night without proper light. Stupid mistake. Deluxe figures go for $30 in Canada, so I was not happy with myself for not paying attention.... I looked into Gundam Markers, and can’t really seem to find a definitive answer, aside from a reddit thread that says they are lacquer based. I would imagine the CW figures are probably the same cheaper plastic as the TLK figures, so that could explain why the plastic on yours got messed up too, if you accidentally applied too much. As for the Testors acrylics, I’m not a huge fan of them myself, but other people swear by them. They, like the Tamiya acrylics (which are actually primarily meant for airbrushing) need to be thinned properly and require several VERY light coats. There are also some people don’t even use hobby-brand paints for their customs. They’ll just use house brand acrylics from Michael’s or Walmart, and get awesome results. As long as they are clear coated properly, they work just fine.
I have yet to see a custom end up looking really good using that craft paint. It's thick, the pigments are harsh and thinning doesn't even really help. I used it in the past for set pieces like dioramas and miniature terrain, and that's what it's good for. I've painted three MP jets, and it isn't easy. There are numerous rub points that need treated (sanded or trimmed), lots of pieces to disassemble for proper covering and loads of details that can be lost with improper paint techniques. I would highly recommend spray paints if an airbrush isn't available, as hand brushing on large surfaces rarely ever turns out attractive. For sprays, I use Krylon, Rustoleum, Tamiya and Testors for nearly everything not requiring shading. Even then, you can get good shading with practice.
