Customs: Custom combiners tutorails?

Discussion in 'Creative General Discussion' started by Drift, Dec 1, 2010.

  1. Drift

    Drift Banned

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    Hi,
    im looking into doing a five robot combiner and i wodered if there were any tutorails on them or any tips you coul give be. I was thing of doind a non should pad one and have the hands attatch by magnets but i don't know what to do about the arms connections (MAYBE PCC FEMALE AND MALE CONNECTION?), chest, thighs (More percifiically how they attatch to the chest and legs), What stuff i need to butcher a Unicron (HOT KNIFE?), what materials i need and just good ways on how to do one.


    Thanks
    -SAMCOOL
     
    Last edited: Dec 1, 2010
  2. Treadshot A1

    Treadshot A1 Or just 'A1' for short...

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    Okay, first, do a google search for "Ptitvite Devastator Tech Specs", because Ptitvite made a really helpful tutorial for building his Devastator, which is now the basis for most of hte combiners you see today.

    Second, get some Lego sets. Technic sets preferably, you need those cross rod and socket pieces, they're really strong and great for holding combiners. Third is getting a hold of some Lego Knights sets, from which to poach some ratchet joints.

    Basically, most of the combiners use a torso bot (bots in the case of Ptitvite's Devs), which is usually a size or two above the limb bots, so Leader is to Deluxe as Deluxe torso is to Scout limbs. Unicron's waist you get by unscrewing some parts and then taking a Dremel to whatever else you need to do with it. Attach the wast to the Torso bot using aforementioned lego cross rods pieces, and the knees go to lower legs by way of Energon connector (Ptitvite used Energon Duststorm, from the Constructicon Maximus set), or also with those lego rods (as in the case of FR's Menasor, i believe).

    Shoulders are more complex. Ptitvite's Devs runs with Lego Knights ratchet joints, and most follow this procedure with ratchet joints of their own, though the exact source of said joints is arbitrary (Neo Shifters, Lego Knights, etc.). If your bots are lighter, and you're not using Primus Arms, then you can resort to Bionicle/Hero Factory/Exo Force ball joints, but be aware they don't hold much weight at all, so it is advised you use these only if you limb bots make the whole arm by themselves (most don't, we use Primus' forearms for that), and your hand is relatively "featherweight".

    The Feet all depend on what bot you used, but they use the usual Lego connectors for most that i've seen. You can use the feet off anything, people have use G1 Omega Supreme's feet, or just make the feet out of the limb bots themselves.

    Just a general tip: when using Lego's cross rod pieces, glue one end of the rod,so that only one side can pop off. And make sure to glue the rod in whichever side it won't do any damage (so if your joint's on the underside of a car, put the socket on that side, obviously).
    -------------------------------------------------
    Now that we're past the obligatory basic tips, here's my advice: Either build a Devs following Ptitvite's tutorial (or another combiner following someone else's tutorial) to get a feel for it, or build your own at your own risk. I know that when i started making my combiners, my first one failed miserably, because i decided to skip Ptitvite's tutorial completely and went for something completely untested without knowing anything about Combiners. Not a good idea. Only now that i do my 3rd combiner do i understand the physics behind them.

    The main thing to watch out for is weight. These guys weigh a ton, and there ain't a ball joint in the world that will hold that much weight. Almost all use Ratchet joints, and you'd be wise to do the same. Also, the weight dictates your limb bots. A lot of combiners use classics bots and AEC molds because they (especially AEC) are durable and not very complex, making them prime candidates for gestalt work.

    Anyways, hope that helps, good luck, but it looks like you want to try out your own idea, in which case i wish you well, but i foresee failure. :) 
     
  3. Drift

    Drift Banned

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    Thanks, i have a ton of old lego knights, but how do you get out the femals connector (The one on the body) and which glue is best for sticking down parts on them (I:e: the male lego knight connectors
     
  4. Treadshot A1

    Treadshot A1 Or just 'A1' for short...

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    Well, conveniently SQ7 has a glue resource thread up (it's the "quick glue question" thread in RGD), so check there.

    Otherwise, it's also wise to invest in some epoxy putty. I use Milliput, i've heard others swear by Aves Fixit Sculpt, and many others. These things AREN'T adhesives, but glue down your parts, then surround those parts with these putties, which are tacky, so they can form a hold around the parts, strengthening the joint.

    I haven't looked at my old knights in a long time, but i assume if they are part of a bigger lego piece, either use the whole piece where possible, or use a Dremel to cut out the portion you need.
     
  5. Drift

    Drift Banned

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    How do you hide all these pieces so they only appear when combining? Do you attatch the kinghts tatchet joints via magnets so you can plug them in and out?
     
  6. Treadshot A1

    Treadshot A1 Or just 'A1' for short...

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    There's usually no way to hide all the joints within the bot, almost always we need to use separate pieces for the combiner. We only drill out enough room in each bot for a socket joint, which then allows it to combine with the extra parts.

    And NO MAGNETS. The thing that you should always be thinking about with gestalts is weight, and magnets will never hold enough weight to support one, barring N42 and up Neodymium magnets, and at least then of an inch diameter or so. Which are much harder to hide than a socket joint. Overall, stay away from magnet, and read Ptitvite's tutorial on his Devastator to get a better idea of how things go together.
     
  7. Bicycletronox

    Bicycletronox Well-Known Member

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    I should have read this tutorial. Totally wasted time and effort trying to get magnets to work on a KO G1 Predaking custom. Too heavy, so the magnets do nothing even though they are strong magnets.
     

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