Goals: - G1 shoulders - Wrist articulation - Neck articulation - Waist articulation - G1 missile launcher. Hopefully smaller. - ankle tits (maybe) Before and after Done: - G1 shoulders - wrist articulation - full neck articulation - shoulder canons - waist articulation Some pics. Bot mode: Carrier mode. G1 shoulders Preparation: - remove screw from shoulders located in the back. - rotate the back of each shoulder to face the front. - take the left IDW front shoulder and put it behind the right shoulder. Do the same for other of course. - take the left shoulder beams remove the arms then match it to the right G1 shoulder. Do the same of course with the other. Tweaking: let me start by saying everything here is meant to fit the wrong pieces together. A lot of adjustments need to me made. I tried removed the entire shoulder but I couldn't and decided to do it this way. So yes if you remove the entire shoulder you can technically eliminate these steps. - make necessary cuts for the IDW shoulders to fit the the new front now more G1 shoulders. - cut off the screw hole entrance to accommodate the white shoulder beams - cut off the semi-circle located on the inside of the IDW shoulders. This to make the inside of the shoulder flush so you can fit it on the "wrong" G1 shoulder piece. - cut a square on the the IDW shoulder to accomodate the circular ratchet piece. Assembly: At this point I had to figure out how to assemble and secure the wrong shoulders piece together. To do this I needed to do more cutting. Shoulder armour preassembly - cut and remove the "extra" plastic on the cylindrical piece. This will allow it to receive a screw. - find four screws that would fit each of the cylindrical pieces or find screws that would fit and prescrew it like I did. - drill two corresponding holes on the G1 shoulder pieces. - the back and front shoulder piece will now attach securely together using those adjusted cylindrical piece as screw ports. Now that you've prepared each part assemble it and everything should fit into place. Just remember that now you rotated the square G1 shoulder to the front and reverse the white shoulder beams and also reversed the IDW shoulders (now is the back shoulders of your toy). Wrist articulation To sum it up cut it very carefully while leaving the most plastic you can on the arm side. always keep in mind the first thing I mentioned. keep in mind that the plastic on toys nowadays are not made like the sterner stuff in previous years. You'll see what I mean after cutting. - score each side evenly and keep in mind you want to leave the arm some plastic to attach the hand back. - take your time scoring all the way through - once done if you've done everything right find any cylindrical piece to act as peg so your new hand can rotate. - myself I used a Lego piece and added another to reinforce the arm side of the wrist. This arm I did pretty well. As you might have guessed, this is of course my second try. That black Lego piece is already glued in place as well. It articulates on hands side not the arm. neck articulation: this one should even more simple and you can probably use an array of other articulated pieces like a ball joint. It has to be small enough to accomodate transformation. - cut and removed the white swivel part to give more space and flatten that area. - drilled a tiny hole on the now flat part - glued the Lego piece under the UM head - attached the entire thing. Waist articulation Cutting the waist. - again score rather than putting pressure while - beware that the front of the waist area has two small indents that may affect how straight your cut is. score off those small indents first before scoring all sides. - once done the vertical support beam still supports both halves of magnus. - unscrew then cut the support beam as flush as you can - Drill hole on the belt side as close as possible to the lone screw. - Make sure to fit the shelf peg with enough friction. Goal is have enough friction so your articulation is not loose. - while pegged in, cut excess plastic while aligning the cut itself on the where the belt breaks into two halfs. This while ensure that your shelf peg aligns itself accurately once you glue it on the crotch area. - Now you need to fit the shelf peg into the crotch area and will need to cut the sides of it in order to get it all the way in. Shelf support vs self peg Once done it should look like this. - remember the aligned cut on the shelf peg? that will now help you align it on the crotch section ensuring flawless transformation. - another cut is involved to secure the shelf peg on the crotch area. You'll notice a support beam located inside it and you will need two vertical cuts to help it settle in the crotch to be exact. - make sure everything is flush as if the shelf peg did not exist in between the belt and crotch piece. -refit then glue it on. It should look like this afterwards. - drill a hole to accomdate a screw It should look like this. - make a bigger hole on the top side on the belt to accomomdate a stopper. - I took the excess plastic and made screwed it to the shelf peg and it should look like this. - when articulating the friction on the bottom hole holds the peg while the bigger hole on top let's the stopp move around freely but hold the entire bottom half of magnus. when done everything should look like this and still transformable. Everything went fairly well. I have that hole to patch up or make something out of it. Other than that, the mods only affect the robot mode. Articulation on the shoulders are the same. As for the waist articulation, I might go back at it when I have more time to think try out new things. I have an idea in my head on how to to it but like I said in one of the post's here the plastic is not as sturdy after cutting. You can also push the shoulder pin a little more and apply futureto tighten it up even more. Other than that I do want to purchase another one to keep as IDW Ultra Magnus and keep that one stock.