Heavy/Scratch: Combiner Wars Ultra Magnus mods: G1 shoulders, wrist and waist articulation

Discussion in 'Radicons Customs' started by seali_me, Aug 17, 2015.

  1. seali_me

    seali_me Well-Known Member

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    Goals:

    - G1 shoulders
    - Wrist articulation
    - Neck articulation
    - Waist articulation
    - G1 missile launcher. Hopefully smaller.
    - ankle tits (maybe)

    [​IMG]
    Before and after

    [​IMG][​IMG]


    Done:

    - G1 shoulders
    - wrist articulation
    - full neck articulation
    - shoulder canons
    - waist articulation

    Some pics.

    Bot mode:
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    Carrier mode.
    [​IMG][​IMG]

    G1 shoulders

    Preparation:
    - remove screw from shoulders located in the back.
    - rotate the back of each shoulder to face the front.
    - take the left IDW front shoulder and put it behind the right shoulder. Do the same for other of course.
    - take the left shoulder beams remove the arms then match it to the right G1 shoulder. Do the same of course with the other.

    Tweaking: let me start by saying everything here is meant to fit the wrong pieces together. A lot of adjustments need to me made. I tried removed the entire shoulder but I couldn't and decided to do it this way. So yes if you remove the entire shoulder you can technically eliminate these steps.


    - make necessary cuts for the IDW shoulders to fit the the new front now more G1 shoulders.
    - cut off the screw hole entrance to accommodate the white shoulder beams
    - cut off the semi-circle located on the inside of the IDW shoulders. This to make the inside of the shoulder flush so you can fit it on the "wrong" G1 shoulder piece.
    - cut a square on the the IDW shoulder to accomodate the circular ratchet piece.

    Assembly: At this point I had to figure out how to assemble and secure the wrong shoulders piece together. To do this I needed to do more cutting.

    Shoulder armour preassembly
    - cut and remove the "extra" plastic on the cylindrical piece. This will allow it to receive a screw.
    - find four screws that would fit each of the cylindrical pieces or find screws that would fit and prescrew it like I did.
    - drill two corresponding holes on the G1 shoulder pieces.
    - the back and front shoulder piece will now attach securely together using those adjusted cylindrical piece as screw ports.

    Now that you've prepared each part assemble it and everything should fit into place. Just remember that now you rotated the square G1 shoulder to the front and reverse the white shoulder beams and also reversed the IDW shoulders (now is the back shoulders of your toy).

    Wrist articulation
    To sum it up cut it very carefully while leaving the most plastic you can on the arm side.

    always keep in mind the first thing I mentioned.
    keep in mind that the plastic on toys nowadays are not made like the sterner stuff in previous years. You'll see what I mean after cutting.

    - score each side evenly and keep in mind you want to leave the arm some plastic to attach the hand back.
    - take your time scoring all the way through
    - once done if you've done everything right find any cylindrical piece to act as peg so your new hand can rotate.

    - myself I used a Lego piece and added another to reinforce the arm side of the wrist.


    This arm I did pretty well. As you might have guessed, this is of course my second try. That black Lego piece is already glued in place as well. It articulates on hands side not the arm.

    neck articulation: this one should even more simple and you can probably use an array of other articulated pieces like a ball joint. It has to be small enough to accomodate transformation.

    - cut and removed the white swivel part to give more space and flatten that area.
    - drilled a tiny hole on the now flat part
    - glued the Lego piece under the UM head
    - attached the entire thing.

    Waist articulation

    Cutting the waist.
    - again score rather than putting pressure while
    - beware that the front of the waist area has two small indents that may affect how straight your cut is. score off those small indents first before scoring all sides.
    - once done the vertical support beam still supports both halves of magnus.
    - unscrew then cut the support beam as flush as you can

    - Drill hole on the belt side as close as possible to the lone screw.
    - Make sure to fit the shelf peg with enough friction. Goal is have enough friction so your articulation is not loose.
    - while pegged in, cut excess plastic while aligning the cut itself on the where the belt breaks into two halfs. This while ensure that your shelf peg aligns itself accurately once you glue it on the crotch area.
    - Now you need to fit the shelf peg into the crotch area and will need to cut the sides of it in order to get it all the way in.

    Shelf support vs self peg
    Once done it should look like this.
    [​IMG]




    - remember the aligned cut on the shelf peg? that will now help you align it on the crotch section ensuring flawless transformation.
    - another cut is involved to secure the shelf peg on the crotch area. You'll notice a support beam located inside it and you will need two vertical cuts to help it settle in the crotch to be exact.
    - make sure everything is flush as if the shelf peg did not exist in between the belt and crotch piece.
    -refit then glue it on.

    It should look like this afterwards.
    [​IMG]

    - drill a hole to accomdate a screw
    It should look like this.
    [​IMG]


    - make a bigger hole on the top side on the belt to accomomdate a stopper.
    [​IMG]


    - I took the excess plastic and made screwed it to the shelf peg and it should look like this.
    [​IMG]


    - when articulating the friction on the bottom hole holds the peg while the bigger hole on top let's the stopp move around freely but hold the entire bottom half of magnus.
    [​IMG]



    when done everything should look like this and still transformable.
    [​IMG]

    Everything went fairly well. I have that hole to patch up or make something out of it. Other than that, the mods only affect the robot mode. Articulation on the shoulders are the same. As for the waist articulation, I might go back at it when I have more time to think try out new things. I have an idea in my head on how to to it but like I said in one of the post's here the plastic is not as sturdy after cutting. You can also push the shoulder pin a little more and apply futureto tighten it up even more. Other than that I do want to purchase another one to keep as IDW Ultra Magnus and keep that one stock.
     

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  2. Fuhzimota

    Fuhzimota Well-Known Member

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    Looks great so far, keep going!
     
  3. seali_me

    seali_me Well-Known Member

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    Thanks.

    Wrist articulation done.

    I wish I didn't have to do this but now for the fun part.

    Another pic for fun.
     
  4. Mizzinno

    Mizzinno Merc With A Mouthplate

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    Go on....
     
  5. seali_me

    seali_me Well-Known Member

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    Thanks.

    Found my self complaining about the neck. So I fixed that too.
     
  6. Castellan Zilla

    Castellan Zilla M E T A L M U T T

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    Damn. You're making me question if I need to add another UM to my collection.

    It's looking like a yes.
     
  7. rider

    rider Well-Known Member

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    Cool
     
  8. AutobotAlvaron

    AutobotAlvaron Autobot

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    Great mods to CW Magnus Seali_Me! Are those shoulder pieces ShapeWays/3D printed or are they custom made from styrene plastic? You've done wonders making UM much more G1!
     
  9. TheAmazingBrave

    TheAmazingBrave 吾輩は猫である!!!

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    Was the hand mod as scary as I think it would be?
     
  10. ichnach

    ichnach Predacon

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    looks like he swapped the shoulders back to front to me, looks good.
     
  11. Mizzinno

    Mizzinno Merc With A Mouthplate

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    Can we get a write up?
     
  12. bullettrain

    bullettrain Master Investigator

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    I'd love for a write up as well!
     
  13. Budokhan

    Budokhan Wheeljack's apprentice

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    Having already sliced off one hand to make it poseable myself, I can answer that by saying "Its a huge pain in the buttocks!" Its made of the same poly-pro material that all the friction joints are made of. It doesn't cut very easily at all & a word of warning, be careful how much pressure you apply to whatever tool you use to slice 'em off, I already put a hole in one of my fingers doing it!

    & I can say that yes, he def flipped around the shoulders front to back to get the G1 look, brilliant & simple mod! I'd love to see how he modded the neck as thats been vexing me too.
     
  14. seali_me

    seali_me Well-Known Member

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    Exactly. I don't recommend any pressure on the hands or any of the white parts. It's definitely shampoo bottle plastic. The structure holds the entire thing not the plastic.

    Instead let the knife slice through by scoring it gently all the way. This also makes me think twice about the waist articulation. Think of it like you're slicing fresh baked bread. No pressure just let the knife slice.

    You can also reinforce the wrist area on the arm.

    I will write up everything once I made the decision to do the waist or not.
     
  15. indypwr888

    indypwr888 Well-Known Member

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    nice job !!! can't wait to do the same on mine.
     
  16. Rafael_Oliveira

    Rafael_Oliveira Oliver Raf Studio

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    I love the way the mods are going. He actually looks much better proportioned now.
     
  17. seali_me

    seali_me Well-Known Member

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    Found the launchers. Yes spring loaded.
     

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  18. gbm

    gbm Well-Known Member

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    I'm not understanding anything about this. Can you please be more clear on the wrist mod. Thanks.

    (and how does all of this effect transformation?)
     
  19. seali_me

    seali_me Well-Known Member

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    The plastic becomes very flexible at some point.

    Here's the steps for the hand mod:

    - score all sides
    - continue scoring all side as evenly as possible

    I ended cutting my hand and some of ultra Magnus arms parts the first time because I decided to cut with pressure rather than score. Not sure how else to explain it. My best bet was the slicing freshly baked bread. You don't want to end tip squishing it. In this case, you don't want you blade to accidentally cut through the wrist on the arm side.


    Shoulder canons done. It frees up the shoulder articulation.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  20. gbm

    gbm Well-Known Member

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    No, I got that part, but how did you create a swivel?
     

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