Minor/Repaint: Classics Starscream to Classics Thundercracker - PART 2

Discussion in 'Radicons Customs' started by Razorclaw, Jul 25, 2010.

  1. Razorclaw

    Razorclaw Are ya gonna draw pistols

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    Reprolabels added and figure assembled. Not bad, it looks nice, still I can't make myself to transform him.


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    ALT MODE PICS:


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    *** PART 2 - painting the parts ***


    Here's the second part of my custom repaint project.

    The guy who was supposed to get me Cosmos Lac paints for this job got ahold of only the Flat Black, so I had to get Happy Color Blu Trafico from Saratoga instead. This is also a good paint brand, and this particular one is a very nice blue color, maybe a tad darker for Thundercracker, but much better than Azuro Chiaro from the same company, which was too light IMO.

    I chose to use spray paints because I am painting a 6" figure, not an inch and a half miniature.

    That means alot of flat surfaces, so painting with a brush is not recommended unless you don't mind seeing paintbrush strokes in the paint when it dries, or you're patient enough and can take your god damn sweet time by using a paper towel to get excess paint off your brush every god damn time you dip it in the paint. :drunk 

    Which is what I did, when painting some areas on lower legs and upper arms in silver. I had to, because the only silver paint I got is a 3 years old Mithril Silver from Citadel that has started to thicken, so painting larger surfaces with it is a huge PAIN IN THE BUTT. I ordered a jar of Model Master Silver that should arrive Tuesday, so I'll start painting the chest then.

    You can use the paint in small plastic jars if you own an airbrush. I don't, so in general I went with spray paints. I'm over budget on this project as it is, so getting a silver paint in a spray can was out of the question, hence the ordered Model Master Silver for the chest.

    Now, the main thing to keep in mind is that after applying paint it needs to dry, and for it dry properly it is best to suspend the painted part so it doesn't touch any surface. For all the TC parts I used toothpicks that I wedged inside every appropriate hole I could find and that could hold the weight of the part securely. I also used them as leverage for holding the parts while spray painting them.

    You can see an examples of that in these pictures:


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    Wings were another matter. For them I used Energon Divebomb's clear green hatchets which I masked with tape. These weapons have standard 4.5mm pegs on both ends, the same peg size that TC's launchers have for their pegs. I stuck the wings on the handles of these weapons (via the pegholes on TC's wings) and used them for leverage when painting. I used the pegs on the other ends of these weapons (used for attaching them to Divebomb in his alt mode) as handles, so that he can hold them and act as an anchor while the wings dried.

    Before you start painting the parts, pick the parts you want to paint and think about how they are used for both modes and during transformation. This is important because you must know which areas of these parts need to be painted or not. Areas that are not visible in both modes, or come in contact with other surfaces should be left unpainted because it is better for them to be uniformly unpainted that sport paintchips, at least IMO. That also means they must be masked with masking tape. You can clearly see the masking tape on the tailwing assemblies as well as the feet in the picture I posted above.

    I applied two coats of paint on all parts (apart from the lower legs and upper arms, as I just painted them with silver). I let the first coat dry for an hour, and then applied the second coat. I clearcoated the parts with clear paint the next day, so the main paint would have enough time to dry properly.

    I didn't clearcoat the wings as of yet, as I'm waiting for a set of reprolabels with wing stripes for TC. I did this (or didn't do it - whichever you prefer :wink: ) because the clear paint I'm using is gloss, and stickers don't apply very well on gloss paints. I will clearcoat the wings after I apply the stickers.

    As you can deduce from all of this the bulk of the job was done with spray paints, but certain areas (like the lower legs, upper arms and the head) where done by hand. I used two brushes for this - one "000" brush (3 zeros) and a "1" brush. For recessed areas and the TC's face I used the thinner brush, for everything else I used the thicker one (this "1" is a Raphael brand, awesome brush, holds the tip together marvelously, no splitting hairs what so ever).


    This is it for now, folks. I'll post more when I paint the chest and have more info.


    EDIT: Forgot to mention a very important thing. Wear a latex glove or a plastic glove I've seen janitors use in their line of work, or if you can't find them use the plastic freezer bags to cover your hand with which your are holding the parts (by their appropriate toothpics). You don't want to end up painted blue like a Smurf (in this case that is).
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Satomiblood

    Satomiblood Prototype Black

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    Looking good so far. Glad you're doing this yourself.
     
  3. Razorclaw

    Razorclaw Are ya gonna draw pistols

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    Ugh, it looks good now, but we shall see what it will look like when I assemble the little fekker. I made a few mistakes here and there, like not masking certain areas on lower legs and arms, so I spent almost the whole morning yesterday with a scalpel doing scrape-scrape-scrape to get rid of the excess paint. Damn tedious work. Also the brush went berserk once, so I had a silver streak on the blue. I had to take a toothpick and saturate it's tip with blue paint and then use that to paint over the silver.

    When I finish painting I intend to assemble TC in robot mode and put him on display. I'm not gonna touch him for a month or so, just to be sure the paint cures sufficiently so I can transform him.
     
  4. cheetor71

    cheetor71 Autobot

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    The toothpicks are a very clever idea. I'm going to use this the next time I have parts like that to spray. The color for TC looks good. Can't wait to see him all done.
     
  5. Razorclaw

    Razorclaw Are ya gonna draw pistols

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    Gotta love his impaled head, no?
     
  6. Razorclaw

    Razorclaw Are ya gonna draw pistols

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    I have a little question - Should I paint the TC's nipple wheels/fans or not?

    Right now they're black, and I thought of leaving them that way, to break up all the silver on his chest, but what do you guys think?
     
  7. Satomiblood

    Satomiblood Prototype Black

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    Leaving them black is probably better
     
  8. Wyvern

    Wyvern Velvet Sanchez

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    Leave them black or use a different shade of silver..
     
  9. Razorclaw

    Razorclaw Are ya gonna draw pistols

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    *** PART 2 - Annex ***


    I've finished painting the tailwing assemblies and I also painted the chest.

    Latest batch of photos:


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    The parts in the last picture are clearcoated. All that is left that needs to be clearcoated are the tailwing assemblies, wings and chest. I will clearcoat the chest today, but the wings and the rest will have to wait for stickers from reprolabels.

    I think it is important for me to stress that when painting the tailwing assemblies you paint the vertical tailfins first after masking the rest of the assembly.

    This is important because due to the shape of the assembly masking everything apart from the vertical tailfin will involve a lot of bending, sticking and unsticking of the masking tape. Now, picture doing that if that part was already painted. A potential hassle and disaster.

    Also, since I only have the blue color in a can, correcting posible oversprays of black would be almost imposible.

    That is why I painted the vertical tailfins first. And masking them took only about 5 minutes for each of them, while masking the rest of the tailwing assembly took about 15-20 minutes each. It was also much easier.


    There is a saying in my country that translated comes like this - a cheapskate always pays twice.

    Me being a cheap bum and not buying a silver spray paint, meant that I had to paint the chest by hand. It took me two and half hours to paint it up like it is now.

    Which by itself is an awesome piece of work, but I could have done that with a spray can in less than 20 minutes. I'm not counting the time needed for masking the parts of the chest I didn't want painted. That would probably increase the time to 40 minutes.

    Oh yeah, I had to paint the chest with the Citadel Mithril Silver color. Why? Because the Model Master Silver I got is not worth a shit. MM flat black and red are great, but Silver is such a disappointment. It would have probably taken 4 coats of it to get a decent silver color. After that first coat of MM Silver, I had to thin the Mithril Silver down to a liquidity of yoghurt, and then apply 2 coats of it for that nice shiny finish.

    The moral of this story is - don't be cheapskate in this case, it will cost you more time, effort and money in the end (now I have a jar of MM Silver that is basicly useless).

    I would also like to point out that I didn't paint all the parts. I left the part with the hip balljoints and the connecting pieces for the wings unpainted. Like I said previously, IMO it is better to leave the parts uniformly unpainted than have them sporting paint chips. Paint chipping only gets worse with time and leaves the look of a job done half-assed.


    EDIT: Damn, I just noticed a small splurge of blue on the right shoulder intake from spraying yesterday. FIXED!!

    EDIT 2: Gorram it, I spotted more blue sprinkles on the back of both intakes and on the inside of the left one. AAAARGGHH!! FIXED!!
     
  10. Razorclaw

    Razorclaw Are ya gonna draw pistols

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    Well folks, this project has officialy become total PANTS. I started assembling the torso last night and the stupid blue Happy color started chipping all over the place. I was able to salvage most of it, but that also meant another coat of clear paint which got tacky and it got sporting a pair of partial finger prints on the sides of the cockpit fuselage. I will show pics when the damn paint dries, which is going to be tomorrow.

    I am so disappointed with all of this. Who knows how thighs are going to look when I collapse them into the lower legs. Well that ain't gonna happen for a long time. I'm just gonna put the fekker on display and not touch him ever again. I blew money and time on something that is not what I envisioned it to be.

    In retrospect if probably would have been much better if I just bought the TC bootleg off of KOToys and repainted just the chest and head. Like they say - hindsight is 20/20.
     
  11. Satomiblood

    Satomiblood Prototype Black

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    Don't get discouraged. Customizing takes a lot of practice, lots of trial and error. You're never going to learn unless you try and that's exactly what you did.

    As for the telescoping legs, you may have been better off dying them because of the friction during transformation. The Classics SS mold is really tricky to repaint because of all the rub issues. I've encountered similar problems with Classics Rodimus. Certain parts are just going to rub against each other. Did you sand the areas down a little to reduce friction?
     
  12. Razorclaw

    Razorclaw Are ya gonna draw pistols

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    I did sand them down, but the paint still chips. As for the thighs, I don't know, I applied three coats of clear paint, it feels slick now and I also sanded and scraped the insides of the lower legs.

    I wanted to do the whole figure with dyeing, but I couldn't find suitable paint for that at all.
     
  13. Satomiblood

    Satomiblood Prototype Black

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    You mean dye, you couldn't find suitable dye for that at all.

    Well, as I said, the Classics SS mold is difficult to repaint because of all the rub issues.
     
  14. Razorclaw

    Razorclaw Are ya gonna draw pistols

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    That's right. I've been to all kinds of stores and supermarkets, both general and specialist. No dice on the dyes needed for the job.

    Now I'm stuck with this. I'll wait for the wing stickers, then I'll finish him up and put him on display, hoping that Hasbro will release TC in the future.
     
  15. Razorclaw

    Razorclaw Are ya gonna draw pistols

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    Updated the first post with semi-finished photos.
     
  16. Shadowbreaker

    Shadowbreaker \/ /\

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    That's a pretty clean paintjob, there.

    Better than what I've could've pulled off. :thumb 
     
  17. Razorclaw

    Razorclaw Are ya gonna draw pistols

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    Another update with the photos of the finished figure. Reprolabels arrived a couple of days earlier and I just assembled TC today.
     
  18. Satomiblood

    Satomiblood Prototype Black

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    Looks nice. You should apply blue paint to the inner elbows. Just coat it with a tiny bit of superglue to help prevent rub.
     
  19. Razorclaw

    Razorclaw Are ya gonna draw pistols

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    I'm not touching him anymore. He'll stay the way he is.
     
  20. Razorclaw

    Razorclaw Are ya gonna draw pistols

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    Finally transformed the fekker into his alt mode. Fortunate for me, no new paint chips developed at all. The thing I was most scared about - thighs collapsing into his lower legs - went without a hitch. No paint chips or scratches whatsoever.

    Pics in the first post.
     

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