C-Scale Action Figure Grading????

Discussion in 'Transformers Toy Discussion' started by Ladies Man 217, Mar 8, 2009.

  1. Ladies Man 217

    Ladies Man 217 Ladies Man 217

    Oct 20, 2008
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    I would like to pick the mind of the educated consumers. I have been selling some figures on Ebay for a little while now, and to this point I have been trying to give lengthy detailed descriptions of my figures so that the consumer would know exactly what they are getting. I try to take all of my pictures close up, high res, and in true daylight no flash. My question is . Is this enough, or does the serious collector look for someone who is willing to go out on a limb, and actually assign a grade to the figure? I have done some research on Action Figure grading, and even come across a couple of grading scales, but it all seems to be generalized. I would like to as acurrately, and honestly as I can be able to grade the condition of the Transformers that I am selling, but I don't feel comfortable doing it based on generalizations. Has anybody produced, or know of a resource, that has very specific conditions to meet grading requirements that I can go by. Please PM me if you have anything. Thank you.
  2. Aaron

    Aaron Master of Crystalocution Moderator Content Contributor

    Jul 1, 2002
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    Figure grading is a highly subjective thing.

    C-10 is dead mint, the best that could ever come out of fresh factory case.
    C-9 through about C-7 is the standard range of things.
    C-6 and down are boxes that are surprisingly still intact.
  3. Cyberjet #7

    Cyberjet #7 Banned

    Aug 18, 2008
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    AFA (Action Figure Authority) is usually the standard for graded figures. They are very thorough and can find the most specific details on a figure that can sometimes be missed at first glance (or even by the human eye). Their grading scale is commonly based on 1-100 in 5 point incremants; so for example 75, 80, 85, 90. This scale also includes grades for the areas of the figure including - the figure itself, blister condition, and card condition. However, they are now offering a "modern scale" that consists of one overall grade that includes decimals; for example 8.25, 9.25, 7.5. They have only offered a grade of 100 a few times early in their grading career, but it is commonly known that 100 grades are not offered now. A 100 grade would be offered only if, like, God assembled the figure, painted, boxed it, and then hand delivered it to you. The few examples of 100s given out by AFA are almost considered mistakes and would have graded lower if they did not occur so early in AFA history.

    The "Cogsworth" grading scale or "C-grade" scale is what is used by the average toy collector and is not usually so discriminate as the AFA scale. This is the type most seen on Ebay and is very speculative. There are people on Ebay who present high, unrealistic grades for their figures; but in looking at their pictures you can see the grades are only offered to increase the profit they could make off of unsuspecting buyers.

    This would be a good grading system I would use:

    C-10: Does not exist. Never grade something C-10 unless God or your own respective higher-power came down and handed you the figure.

    C-9: Better then case fresh. Should have one or no easily identified flaws. If it has one flaw, it should be very minor and not readily seen.

    C-8: Usually what you find from a "case fresh" figure. This would be a good example of the best figure directly pulled from a case and may only have a couple small creases on the card border, but usually not alot of blister problems.

    C-7: The lowest level a MISB/MOC "collector" would consider buying. Might have one or two "noticeable" flaws, but should still display well. Maybe some one soft-corner, etc.

    C-6 and below: Only good if the piece is a "vintage" level collectible, otherwise this grade should be used for fgures one would want to open.

    Overall, if selling figures for profit and wanting to give the buyer an accurate description you should be very subjective and include ALOT of pictures, or be prepared to have additional pictures ready. Discerning collectors will want to see all corners and sides of the packaging, if they are buying high-end pieces. Tape applications (or tape strikes) will also be important - in terms of tape color and condition. Also, you should be very knowledgeable about the exact product you have so that you can distingusih between variants and the like.

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