Minor/Repaint: Best sculpting material for Junkheap to Scrapheap head?

Discussion in 'Radicons Customs' started by StBrianofMinneapolis, Jan 16, 2012.

  1. StBrianofMinneapolis

    StBrianofMinneapolis Well-Known Member

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    I am looking to sculpt a mouth guard/grill onto a Junkheap head to produce a Scrapheap head.

    Can anyone recommend a great sturdy material to use for this? I am dyeing a junkion body brown to make a solid unscratchable finish and I would like a sculpting material for the face that will stand up to play wear in a similar fashion.
     
  2. Rumble02

    Rumble02 Radicon of Obliticons

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    i would not suggest sculpy for this one.
     
  3. kjyl

    kjyl I'm a shark.

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    Green stuff?
     
  4. mx-01 archon

    mx-01 archon Well-Known Member

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    Apoxie Sculpt or Fixit Sculpt.

    Welcome to Aves Studio

    Avoid Sculpey like the plague.


    If you don't want to go through the hassle of ordering online, for smaller jobs like the one you're planning, an alternative would be Milliput/Green Stuff, which you can find at any Games Workshop store, if you've got one in your area.

    But if you've got more projects planned in the future, then I seriously recommend investing in some Apoxie Sculpt. Easier to work with, and much better bang for your buck.
     
  5. hthrun

    hthrun Show accuracy's overrated

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    I agree on Apoxie Sculpt. Very useful stuff!
     
  6. cheetor71

    cheetor71 Autobot

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    Aves makes a really good product. Works great.
     
  7. Yaujta

    Yaujta Broken. TFW2005 Supporter

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    Milliput. Available from Hobby Lobby and online. I really like the fine-grade stuff.
     
  8. Alteron_Sheng

    Alteron_Sheng 'Tis an Kitbasher & Elder TFW2005 Supporter

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    For adding onto an existing plastic piece I suggest Aves Fixit Sculpt. It's a two part self-hardening material that takes dye well and can be sanded after setting.
     
  9. MonkeyBusiness

    MonkeyBusiness Autobot Engineer

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    Apoxie Sculpt and Styrene.
     
  10. changy

    changy Well-Known Member

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    I think Styrene is good and using Apoxie Sculpt to fill in gaps is the way to go
     
  11. MAIDEN JAPAN

    MAIDEN JAPAN Banned

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    I use Bondo polyester putty for all my custom parts. It dries fast and easy to sculpt.
     
  12. SonOfNemesis

    SonOfNemesis Well-Known Member

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    I've used apoxie sculpt, it's easy to use, easy to mold, acts just like clay when molding, you can cut it, carve it, wet it to smooth it out, and it dries like a friggen rock. After it curing (24 hrs) I've used a dremel sanding bit on it several occasions to clean up rough edges and it shaves down real nice and with no cracking or breaking.
     
  13. D-Unit

    D-Unit #1 Heel

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    I would just go with a small piece of styrene, much more stable
     
  14. nemesisred

    nemesisred Well-Known Member

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    Magic sculpt, it's awesome and easy to work with. Just like clay and air dry to a hard resin.
     
  15. javaco

    javaco javaco

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    i used styrene. works great!
     
  16. Shepard Prime

    Shepard Prime autobot

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    So far, I've been living and dying by Crayola Air-dry clay. Stuff is great. Takes three full days to dry completely (maybe a little longer on really big items) but it's good if you need to go back and adjust something. Plus, as long as you keep the part you're working on airtight, you can work on it indefinetly until you're happy with it.
     
  17. Satomiblood

    Satomiblood Prototype Black

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    How durable is it once it sets? Does it take paint well, can it be sanded or drilled?
     
  18. Cool Hand Lube

    Cool Hand Lube Well-Known Member

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    Why all the Sculpey hate?
     
  19. Shepard Prime

    Shepard Prime autobot

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    I think it depends on what you're making. I made a cannon for both BB Leader OPtimus and leader Energon Megatron (because that little piddly tank cannon is too wussy for megs lol) and they're durable as heck tho' fairly big. I've dropped them both onto a hard floor (one of which nailed a shelf before hitting and not a crack) by accident. I also made a faceplate for Op because the battle hooks came with the mouth, not the mouthpiece and that's still on his face with no glue whatsoever and it's still on him and not cracked and I play with my TFs whenever I get the chance.

    BUT! When I make smaller things (antennas and such) I've noticed I have to be really careful in how I build it because if it's structurally not strong enough I find if I actively try to break 'em for stress tests they can break with enough pressure.

    Paints I can't help you on because I use those tube-based acrylics from Wal-mart with Krylon clear gloss for a shiny finish and from what I've read, ppl don't use those for their customs so I don't know how well it'd do with TEstors, etc.

    Oh! Also, drilling and sanding would probably be out as well because it'd be like drilling a clay pot. Eventually, it'd crack if you drill in the wrong spot. Usually, if I make something that requires holes, I put them in in when making it. Simularly with sanding. Get it right the first time (tho' as mentioned, you can keep messing with it until you get it right).

    Hope this helps. Also, keep in mind that I'm really new to doing all of this so I'm almost positive that I'm doing half of my customs that I'm working on right now wrong. Just saying, take this with a grain of salt. :) 
     
  20. Shepard Prime

    Shepard Prime autobot

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    It does apply well with Liquid Leaf and Folk Art. I use those for metals and it went on fine.
     

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