Hey all, this is an "in-depth" Work In Progress; combined with a do-it-yourself/tutorial how to articulate a Generation 1 Swoop. My goal / intention when retooling these G1 figures is to keep them (a) Looking G1 still and (b) keeping as many parts/aesthetics as possible. I am not a fan of G1 figures with other lines mixed in, especially when they don't mesh well. I strive to keep as many original parts on as possible, but improve the articulation with/on those existing parts/limbs. In the coming days and weeks, I will update this thread with more details as well as write-up threads pertaining to the other Dinobots Here's what you'll need : Basic kitbashing tools : x-acto knife dremel various bits / sanding disc, cutting disc, drill bit (3/16 or smaller) epoxy glue super glue (I use zap-a-gap) screws sander (I use a mouse) x-acto saw (or jeweler saw) Figures/parts : Generation 1 Swoop Solid ball joint with good range of motion Small minicon figure(s) Sturdy plastic scraps As you can see, Swoop's also quite the brick. He has shoulder, elbow and knee articulation but really lacks the ability for any dynamic posing. I start by taking him apart from his back. The chest halves are held onto the wing assembly with 4 screws. Remove these screws (keep them nearby and don't lose them) LEGS Using a jeweler x-acto saw, I remove the upper legs from the wing assembly. It's important to make a nice precise cut. Don't cut into the wing assembly and be careful not to cut into the legs. You want a straight cut which will remove the legs. I remove the long pin which runs through both legs. I'll reuse this pin in a minute. It can be pulled out from the knee joint with some pliers or strong hands. I cut the long pin down into 2 smaller pins, each the same length as the knee for each leg. I used a fiberglass reinforced cutting wheel on my dremel. Very dangerous! use some goggles and pliers, the metal will heat up VERY quick and burn the hell out of your fingers. Now that the pins are tightly back in their respective legs, The legs can now independently bend at the knee. Next, I hunt for a suitable ball joint for the hip. In this sample/tutorial, I am using a shoulder ball joint from a Power Core Combiner figure (hey, they apparently are good for something...) I take both legs, and cut off a portion of the top of one of them. It's IMPORTANT to keep the other leg close by for reference. You HAVE to mod 1 leg so that it retains the EXACT same length as the unmodded leg when it's completed. When it is completed (and the right size) use the modded leg's size reference for the second leg. In this photo, I cut the red part first (with x-acto knife) then the silver part. The red plastic is cut down a hair more so that when the new "top" of the silver is added, the red doesn't hit into it. I use some Zap-A-Gap to adhere the new hip to the top of the leg. It's rough for now, and will need to get shaved down to fit the shape of the upper leg better. Notice how the leg I am working on is exactly the same length as the one untouched and next to it. I add some styrene strips along the sides and sand the hell out of it, making it look like 1 solid piece. I've also rounded off the back-top-corner so it can move more freely. Now on the wing assembly part, I drill 2 small holes (about 1/16") where the hip's ball joint peg will go. I also drill holes into the backs of the ball joint pegs. I run tight screws through the back of the wings INTO the ball joint pegs. I also add a drop of Zap a Gap to keep it tight and permanent. Snap the new legs onto those ball joints and the legs are complete. BEAK I use my dremel to sand down Swoop's child safe beak. There's enough plastic there to safely sharpen it. I then go back over this area with finer grit sand paper, making it super smooth.