Anyone know anything about pinecar dry transfer decals?

Discussion in 'Creative General Discussion' started by jerminator, Apr 20, 2011.

  1. jerminator

    jerminator Well-Known Member

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    Mods, please move this to the right forum if this is the wrong one. Recently I was at Hobby Lobby and saw a bunch of different "dry transfer decals" for pinecars. One was a firebird set that I thought would look badass on my RtS Tracks. Luckily, after reading the directions, I thought it would be best to test the method on package with one of the stickers I wasn't gonna use on a spot that wouldn't be noticeable on teh car if it couldn't be scraped off.

    The instructions say to cut the sticker out, then firmly place it onto teh desired spot, and take a burnisher or dull pencil and rub it, then repeat the process with the backing sheet over the decal. I have had no such luck with this. The decal slipped and moved, and when I rubbed with a pencil, it warped the plastic backing of the decal, leaving only a tiny tiny speck of the decal on the car body.

    Do any one of our more experience Radicons know anything about these kind of decals and if so, have any suggestions or have I basically spent $4 on some useless, but cool looking decals? Thanks in advance.
     

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  2. RodimusDawg

    RodimusDawg Well-Known Member

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    With my experience with dry rubs it's been hit or miss and many factors come into play. It could be either the rubs themselves are too old or maybe the surface is a bit resistant.

    I found that cutting out the decal then using scotch tape or regular household clear tape and secure the decal over the area of desired application works best for me. And using a dull pencil and firmly go over the area. Not so much as to poop yourself straining strength but you get the picture.

    Not only does using the clear tape help you see your work/application area but lets you get it dead on. And if you have a bigger decal just layer multiple strips of tape by the edges until desired size is achieved.

    Also check this link below.
    How to apply decals « Kusakusa Gunpla
     
  3. jerminator

    jerminator Well-Known Member

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    Thanks RodimusDawg. I think maybe I could have been a bit ovezealous in my rubbing. I was using so much pressure it was warping the cellophane backing of the decal. That tape method is a great idea! I'll try that next.
     
  4. destrongerlupus

    destrongerlupus #MoreSawBoss

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    LOVED these when I was a wee lad doing models of various kinds. They don't always hold up super-well long term if they get any abuse, but the advantage is that they're cheap and you can get all kinds of cool designs.

    As RD mentioned age can be a huge factor, and different producers make stuff of varying quality. The ones I used to use didn't require two different applications like it sounds like yours do, so you might try a few different brands you may find some that work better for you.

    Specifically the pinewood ones may require the extra step because they're intended to be used on wooden-models, whereas you may have more luck using ones designed for use on plastic models (or toys).
     
  5. Fishdirt

    Fishdirt Tin Toy Transformer

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    Just used some for a friend. These are rub ons but luckily not the super flimsy kind that can rip when applied. They are pretty strong so as long as you use common sense and don't go super fast they're great.
     

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