This has been a long time coming. I meant to post it in the "Exhaustive Kitbasher's Resource Guide" before the big remodel, but that's gone now so it gets it's own thread, heheh. So now, the commercial (that's what it sounds like to me after I typed it, ): Are you tired of fighting with a hammer and nail trying to remove that hard to reach pin in your kitbash? I found this handy little tool and have been using it ever since. It's an Automatic Center Punch. That link shows two different ones, and I have found that the Jeweler's punch is best because of the smaller point on the front. Just push the punch into the pin, and the spring loaded mechanism inside does all the work. Push it just a few times and the pin should be out enough to grab with a pair of pliers. So much easier and quicker. Hope that helps!
Ahhh!...cool!! I have used these at work before, but never thought about using it for pin removal....I have to give it a try. Thanks for the tip
That's a great idea and thanks for the link. I could really see one of these being good as a "pin starter". Mainly because it would free up a hand to hold the piece as opposed to trying to hold a punch/nail AND the part with one hand and a hammer in the other. The only thing is that most pins, specifically on Alternators, are around 1/16" diameter. Even the small one you listed has a shaft diameter of 5/16". So in most cases the pin would only be exposed the amount that the punch could penatrate. Hopefully this would be enough to get a hold of with a pair of pliers. I personally use one of these: It's a 1/16" roll pin punch. The punch sticks out about 1/2" so it'll knock the pin out plenty far. It's also much better for tapping with a hammer because the heads larger than a nail. However, even these are tough to use in areas where you have little to no clearance. Like the pins under the hood of Alt Prime.
thath just like the spring loaded window punches we use on the fire department to break tempered glass on vechicles
That's what I use as well. I also have a vice-grip clamp that is rubber coated to hold the part with so I only have to hold two things.
Any tips on a super tight pin? I'm trying to get movie deluxe jazz's windshield/back part out and the 'auto-morph' thing is what I'd like to leave intact so I don't wanna just snap it off. It's the pin that goes through the blue clear plastic and the grey in the centre that pushes his neck and head down. I haven't tried a punch yet, but I had the pin from his trunk off and was shoving it in as hard as I can with a pair of needlenose pliars. Marbye I just suck
just to let you all know, I picked up one of these a while back from a guy on ebay for fairly cheap. he has several left right now.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=120125432292&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=002
Thanks for the tip evening though it did sounded like a commerical, but anyways that might be helpful then a hammer and pin punch that I have. It might make it easier for me to use. So thanks for the info, AutobotSDG.
Glad I could help Those are probably a lot bigger, but yeah same concept. I'm not sure I understand... are you trying to remove the pin or put it back in? Sounds like you're trying to put it back in, and if that's the case, you won't need a punch for that. What sounds like is happening, is that the holes aren't lining up all the way through and that will make it very difficult to put the pin back in. That one actually looks better than the picture I linked to. How is it on the size for pushing the pin through as Lobo was pointing out? I tend to do that a lot (sounding like a commercial) comes with working in the business I guess, lol. I find the punch considerably easier to use, and time saving as there is no set up with a vise, fumbling with hammer and nail, or regular pin punch. Although I am not knocking those that have used that method for a long time and that's what they are used to and prefer. I used that method for a long time myself, even had a regular punch like Lobo linked a pic to, until it broke and I had to get another and came across this automatic punch and haven't looked back since, heheh. Anyway, glad I could help!
I see well sometimes I go commerical mode as well, but anyways thanks. I guess this is a maybe for me but I'll wait and see what I do with my customizing projects.
To AutobotSDG: I'm trying to get it out... the one closest to his windshield on his back. http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh50/LegoNinj4/jcrap001.jpg http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh50/LegoNinj4/jcrap002.jpg Thanks *edit* The one on the top, dur *edit* I has photoshops? http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh50/LegoNinj4/jcrap002arrod.jpg that one with the arrow
Don't we all sound like a commercial when we start talking about paint, glues,styrene, etc. For the longest time I could have sworn Jin worked for company that makes Apoxie Sculpt.
Wait... is this a spring-loaded auto-punch? It doesn't say much in the auction notes, so I want to check before I buy one. Does it work for most TF pins, or is it too big for some? zmog
I picked up one of the jeweler's punches yesterday ($15 at True Value). I tried it out on removing Movie Cliffjumpers's toe and I couldn't get the pin to move at all. I started by setting the tension as low as possible and kept building it up. With the tension set to about mid range I stopped because the pointed end started to deform the end of the pin I was pushing on. I think I would have a little better luck with Alternator pins though because they don't appear to be as snug as the pin I was trying to remove. IMO, I wouldn't recommend this for pin removal. But I would definately recommend it if you need to drill a hole in plastic for you projects. I have a larger automatic punch that is meant for more serious metal working but this smaller one is perfect for plastics and soft metal as the tension can be set very low.
Lobo, what if the (what looks like)sharp point on the jewelers punch was ground off so you have more of a flat end like that pin punch? Do you think that would help this thing at all?
So what else did you try it on? Surely, you didn't use it on only one pin before you declared that it isn't a good alternative. There are stubborn pins out there, even for the trusty ol' hammer and nail.
I didn't give up on it. In fact on my latest project I used the crap out of it and love it. Just not for pin removal. Like I said though, I think it would work better on Alternator pins because they are larger diameter. I just haven't had to opportunity to try it out on one yet. Filing down the point would help as far as pin damage goes. But it would further reduce the amount of travel you would have before smaller diameter pin hole would block the larger diameter punch. See my first post in the thread. Don't get me wrong. I really like this thing and I would recomend it to any customizer. I just think a tool like this has it's purpose just as the pin punch does. And I agree that the pin punch breaks pretty easy. Especially if you have it at an angle. I always buy 2 so I have a backup. If the tip breaks completely off of one, save it! Use the broken punch for resetting pins when you put your project back together.
