Customs: Adventures in Casting - Joining the Revolution

Discussion in 'Creative General Discussion' started by project9, May 11, 2009.

  1. project9

    project9 White n' Nerdy

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    Well, I tried molding & casting a couple years ago but didn't quite pan out. I've tried again now with much better success.

    Cast3.jpg
    Cast4.jpg

    So my question to the folks out there like Solscud007, Frenzy_Rumble, Darkov, Ptitvite and so on, is what brands/materials have you had success with? or what is the better stuff?

    I know Solscud007 & F_R mentioned in another thread (that I didn't want to derail) that Alumilite's 24hr cure silicone was better than Smooth-on's. Was that comparing to Smooth-on's 24h cure Mold Max rubber? or their shorter cure OOMOO?

    I picked up their starter kit at their store (Reynolds Advanced Materials) since it's right near by and used the OOMOO on the attached Starscream head. It seems great aside from the lower tear strength, which would probably suck for fine detail areas. The resin, Smooth Cast 300, seems fine. I didn't have many bubble issues or anything on the few tried I did.

    So, anybody want to post some product reviews? =D
     

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  2. TonyzCustomz

    TonyzCustomz Am I doin it rite? TFW2005 Supporter

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    First off your lucky you got a Rynolds so close to you. The guys and gals there are very informative and can pretty much set up your game plan in store based on what you tell em. From my experience(which is 3 years of casting both as a hobby and for toy companies) is that Ecoflex 50 is the best silicone. If your doing heads you dont even need to do a two part mold just use some clay and prop the head in a cup, mix, pour, once cured is 3 hours pop it out and cut a small seam on the mold. the stuff stretches and retains shape so well and they last for many many castinigs even when being constantly manipulated(Casted 25 parts in a row without the slightest problem of degradation).

    Smooth cast 300 is great stuff but if you ever need something not so rigid when cured(like swords or maybe gun barrels that can break easily) Smooth cast 45D is a great semi rigid resin. It is an amber color too which means that it is a bit easier to add pigments to to color them whatever you want.
     
  3. project9

    project9 White n' Nerdy

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    Yeah, when I got the flyer saying that there was a Boston store opening, I was surprised. Totally a hole in the wall though.. haha. Less of a store... more of a office/room with shelves.

    That's what I figured. The guy at Reynolds says most people use yogurt cups and do exactly that. Blob of clay to hold it and off you go. I was figuring I could do a seam mold but was afraid to try it first off. Now that I've seen it in action, that will be my next plan. Heads aren't my only plan but small parts/accessories should fit that bill too.

    Those were going to be my follow up questions. =) Semi-rigid resin and pigments. Aside from the actual urethane colorants... are there any ways to color the resin?
     
  4. TonyzCustomz

    TonyzCustomz Am I doin it rite? TFW2005 Supporter

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    LOL yeah from what I heard most are, my closest one is in Hollywood and its ok they have all the products on display though and thats cool. Love checking out all the disk samples they have of all the products too.

    Yep, yogurt cups are awesome. When that doesnt fit the bill just use the small legos(the one peg by one to seven pegs work great) on there little lego mat to build whatever dimension space you need.

    Resin additives are all there. The SO-Strong are the basic coloring ones. The thing with them is they while they are very strong coloring if the resin cures white your colors will be always off a bit and become pastel and thinking you can fix that by adding more can work but the more you ad the weaker the resin becomes. So whenever you plan on doing color castings the resins that cure to an amber color will work better, especially the Smooth Cast 325 and the semi rigid I mentioned already.
     
  5. project9

    project9 White n' Nerdy

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    What would you or anyone suggest for a good, high strength resin? For a lot of parts, standard Smooth Cast 300 stuff should be fine but I was wondering what to use for high stress pieces?

    For example, I'm toying with making some Revoltech-type parts. The parts can probably be done with the 45D, since the real ones are a rubbery kind of plastic, but the joints are another story. I tried making a cast of them with SC 300 resin and, with enough pressure, the stems snapped off. Any suggestions on what to go with? I don't have a gram scale but will look at getting one if needed.
     
  6. TonyzCustomz

    TonyzCustomz Am I doin it rite? TFW2005 Supporter

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    Problem with most resins is they will never be like certain plastics such as the nylon plastic mix of revoltech joints. The strongest resin you can get(I think) is "Task 9," numbers wise it is over twice the strength of any off the smooth-cast resins. Best of all no gram scale! Its a 1:1 mix so no worries and one less thing to get.
     
  7. project9

    project9 White n' Nerdy

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    Oh, I totally understand that. I was just hoping for something that could stand up to some pressure, since it would take a lot of wear clicking back and forth. I might have to give that #9 stuff a try. I'd love to just be able to pick up joint sets (even those new Assemble Borg ones) but that's the drawback of being in the US. We never get any of the awesome stuff they have overseas there.

    Thanks for the advice, Tony!
     
  8. Th0r4z1n3

    Th0r4z1n3 The F*cking Lizard King! Veteran

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    Hey WOW this thread so far has been awesome. Answered a few of the questions I had from the tutorial/how to section. I'm thinking of giving this a try, I wanna cast the parts from this Four Star Seeker KO in G1 colors to help bolster my Seeker army, any advise for a n00b?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  9. kylash327

    kylash327 TOOOOOOYS!

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    ive been using SmoothSil920 for molds from Smooth-on for years in prop making, always works great. If you need to do castings on the cheap you can always use Fiberglass resin/fiberlgass bondo mix, you can get it all at walmart.
     
  10. frenzyrumble

    frenzyrumble Banned

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    not liking smooth on's 920 much myself. I have half the containers of it left - switched back to alumilite's.
     
  11. Th0r4z1n3

    Th0r4z1n3 The F*cking Lizard King! Veteran

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    I don't mean to sound like a total spaz, but would any of the stuff I need to do this be availabe locally at a place like Hoby Lobby where I might be able to get some face to face time with someone who knows about this sype of stuff or is online my best bet?
     
  12. frenzyrumble

    frenzyrumble Banned

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    I got my first "kit" at a local hobby shop. People sell them on ebay also, or you can buy directly from the manufacturers.
     
  13. REDLINE

    REDLINE longer days, plz? Veteran

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    I've never seen anything related to casting at my Hobby Lobby.
     
  14. Boggs6ft7

    Boggs6ft7 TFW2005 Supporter

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    One of the closest places for you would be Monster Makers

    The Monster Makers - 866-521-(SPFX)7739 - Halloween Latex Mask Making Kits, Fang Kits, Special Effects Supplies and more

    I personally think they are expensive and there are better options, but they are located in NE Ohio, I know you are in NW Ohio, but if you are ever in the area, you could probably stop by there.

    I've never been to their store, just ordered stuff online before.

    I get my casting stuff from engineer guy.

    Welcome! - The Engineer Guy
     
  15. Th0r4z1n3

    Th0r4z1n3 The F*cking Lizard King! Veteran

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    I don't mean to be a pain in the a$$ but about how many uses can you get out of a typical mold before you have to recast it? Are there any more long lasting methods for casting? A couple of things I have in mind involve using some of the same molds.

    Also anyone have any experiance with ding clear parts? Once I get the whole process down I've got a project in mind.
     
  16. frenzyrumble

    frenzyrumble Banned

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    the smooth on stuff was ripping a little in the details, I was about to get about 20-30 solid.

    the alumilite shit, I am still using the same molds, and prolly cast twice as many, with no loss in quality.
     
  17. Th0r4z1n3

    Th0r4z1n3 The F*cking Lizard King! Veteran

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    20-30 pieces? Wow that's a lot more than I thought. That'll work out good then :D 
     
  18. project9

    project9 White n' Nerdy

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    I'm using OOMOO and will admit it's not great long term at holding up in the thin/detail areas... but it's also a 1:1, 40 tear strength, 7hr rubber. Depending on which Alumilite you're using, if you use a 10:1, 110 tear, 24hr rubber. Twice as strong would probably mean twice the # of casts. =)

    Smooth-on's OOMOO seems equivalent to Alumilite's QuickSet and their Mold Max seems equivalent to their High Strength 2/3. But QuickSet does have a higher hardness/Shore rating, so perhaps that helps.

    I need cash now (damn you ROTF!) and a day off to stop by Reynolds to pick
    some of the quicker setting OOMOO and some of the suggested resins from Tony to try them out.
     
  19. frenzyrumble

    frenzyrumble Banned

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    Let's just say, I used the alumilite to cast a "certain head" which has about 60 cast from that mold already (can't really say what head that is, hehe)
    And the mold's still very strong, casted 1 tonight, looks like the original still.
     
  20. TonyzCustomz

    TonyzCustomz Am I doin it rite? TFW2005 Supporter

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    I have heard of molds lasting pretty much forever. All it depends on is A. how complex the piece is(undercuts or anything that puts tension on the mold) and B. how you set up pouring and pulling out the cast. Setting the mold up so the cast can just fall out pretty much when opened will leave you with a mold that will last in excess of 100 easily.
     

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