Added waist swivel: Check.

Added shoulder swivel: Check.

Added arm/elbow swivel: Check.

Added sword and shield: Check.

Yes, completely transformable as always.



Tools Needed:

- Pliers
- Drill
- Hobby knife
- A new arm/elbow swivel joint. Check below.

For the pin removal tutorial, go here:

http://www.tfw2005.com/boards/tutorials-how-tos/214537-how-remove-pins-rivets.html


Shoulder Swivel:



- Cut the shoulder ball joint on two opposing sides. The goal is to have a flat surface to drill a hole for a pin to go through.
- Draw a cross to center your hole, and then drill.





- Cut the slider piece that goes in the chest. The goal is to have “give” space for the new swivel piece.
- Insert pin. On mine, I used a plastic one.





- Cut the tabs. It will improve (a little) the shoulder range.



Arm/Elbow Swivel:

Before starting, [it's notable that] I found the new arm/swivel joint from DotM HA Basic Sandstorm.



- Remove the pin.
- Cut the tabs that connects on the shoulder piece to the arm piece. Leave the tab on the arm.
- Draw a cross where you're aiming to drill the hole. Key is alignment. There's no going back after you drill your hole. I tend to go from small which will lead to a perfect one. So you it won't flop.







- Connect your pin. Here I used a plastic one again.



Waist Swivel:



- Round off the square peg. Yes on the middle portion and top.
- Diagonally cut the crotch pieces. This will make it swivel easier.





- The screw holders found here hinder the waist articulation. Trim it.





- Trim the back piece which holds the waist during transformation. Make sure to leave enough plastic so it will still on the entire waist during transformation.





- Diagonally cut both corners of the front waist peg holder. This will make a smoother articulation between the crotch piece and waist.

- Rodimus' backpack will hinder your waist. Add a cylindrical plastic piece on the stomach part where you insert the screw. I added one from a leftover tracks screw holder, my previous tutorial. Then find a longer screw. This will keep the back piece locked on the stomach and you won't have to loosen up the screw.

Here's the new pin I added on the shoulder. I used Universe 2.0 Galvatron's crotch joints:




That was a real pain to add, by the way; it was no fun. It was a little harder than I normally expected. I fucked up the other crotch piece and looked for my other Galvatron, but for some odd reason I'm missing it. I'm gonna need to find that third Galvatron copy or find another donor.




This gives the '"'till all are one" saying another meaning!


* * * * *


Here's the easy way of doing both arms in maybe fifteen (15) minutes. The results are not the same as my first try using Universe 2.0 Galvatron's crotch, but it works and it's easier. Again anyone can do this.

Shoulder swivel:

Tools Needed:

- Screw driver
- Hobby knife
- Pen
- Drill and 1/16 bit
- Pin
- Long nose pliers


Instructions:

- unscrew the hood to release the slider and arm
- pop off the entire arm with the ball joint
- remove the socket/slider piece
- cut the ball joint found in the picture (cut two opposing side flat, the point is to have a flat surface to drill)
- draw cross to center your hole on the, now, flat surface of the ball joint
- do the same thing on the socket part.
- drill the holes
- carve out the socket until you can get a swivel socket
- put them together then push the metal pin inside
- carve out the . . . .


Waist:









I ran out of pins, but you get the drift. Damn you for pushing me into making it!

One more . . . .




I gave him a sword and shield. I intended to keep a second copy of Rodimus, but I had to use it to experiment with the arm/elbow swivel. Then the idea of shield came up then I made a sword:

Not sure. It will depend on your shoulder work. I suggest not to use the ball joints if you want your protector armor to have better articulation. My first shoulder piece has complete 90 degrees swivel. I suggest finding another swivel joint itself rather than using the stock ball joint. See below.




This involves removing the pin on the wheel so you can gain access to the pin which holds the ball joint.