Heavy/Scratch: A new Noodle for CHUG Red Alert

Discussion in 'Radicons Customs' started by Budokhan, Jun 7, 2011.

  1. Budokhan

    Budokhan Wheeljack's apprentice

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    Hey Gang!

    So the other day I was lookin' at my CHUG lineup & thought Poor red Alert, he's got the same original noodle as Sideswipe had. Time for a new noggin' I think!" So I scrounged thru my bag of extra heads & lo & behold...I find the very last miscast Sideswipe revised head I had !! :D  I decided to go with a very "G1" feel to it & here is where it's at so far. Keep in mind, he's a w.i.p. & very little will remain of the original head by the time I'm done! There are still many, many details to be added as well so if he looks a bit "off" that's why!

    I also had to revise the neck to accommodate the new, larger sized plates on the sides of his head by very carefully ( & tediously ) sawing off the old neck at its base, raising it by .103", pinning it in place & rebuilding the new neck shape with Apoxie sculpt

    Hope you guys like him so far! Comments, crits & ideas are always welcome!

    Cheers!

    ~BK
     

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  2. thyvipera

    thyvipera ThyVipera

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    that's REALLY nice! a lot of work is going into this, and the payoff is looking well worth it.
     
  3. Megatron31

    Megatron31 I Belong to Nobody! TFW2005 Supporter

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    i love the aged face look he has (as if his paranoia has worn him down)

    awesome head you gonna make these availible
     
  4. AutobotBee

    AutobotBee Well-Known Member

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    I was gonna say the same thing. He looks great. :D 
     
  5. G60Force

    G60Force World Smallest Mini-Con

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    perfect already :D 
     
  6. cheetor71

    cheetor71 Autobot

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    The head looks pretty good.
     
  7. Slothboy

    Slothboy Nick

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    Your sculpting skills always impress me! How do you go about getting ultra flat surfaces? Do you wait until the apoxie has set and then carve, or do you freeze before, carve and then let it set etc?
     
  8. Budokhan

    Budokhan Wheeljack's apprentice

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    Thanks very much!

    Thanks for the compliment!
    Yeah, poor R.A., too many years of lookin' over his shoulder & jumpin' at shadows was too much for him! :eek: 

    If I'd had the presence of mind to do this head months ago maybe but I don't wanna step on Venksta's toes since he's already got a set out. :) 


    Thanks sooo much! :D 

    Wow! Thanks man! :thumb 

    Thanks very much!

    Thank you very much my friend! As for the Apoxie sculpt,there are two ways I approach this:

    1- For general large, "Flat" areas that will be reshaped later, I mix the Apoxie Sculpt & apply it to the places needed & then shape it roughly to what I need it to be using my sculpting tools. Once it's cured, usually about 4 hours, I then use a set of jeweler's files & file the planes & angles to about 90% of where I want them. After that's finished, I use a "Flat Sanding" table to get my surfaces smooth, level & flat!

    2- For detail work (ie facial details & other tiny greeblies) I'll mix the Apoxie Sculpt & let it sit for about fifteen minutes . This allows it to get just hard enough so that it doesn't stick to the tool & is a lot easier to shape into small details. After its cured, I go back & refine the details using my Optivisors & sculpting minarets.


    Incidentally, If you haven't already heard this, Apoxie Sculpt being water soluble, can be worked & smoothed really well if you wet your tools that you use to work it with. the water will "moisten & soften" the stuff just like it would with conventional clays but it will dry out fairly quickly & the curing time is completely unaffected! Pretty cool, huh?

    Hope that helps a tad when you work with it!


    Cheers gang!

    ~BK
     
  9. Megatron31

    Megatron31 I Belong to Nobody! TFW2005 Supporter

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    afters its cured does water still have that affect on it?

    i bought a thing of apoxie sculpt last year and never even opened it (i keep using styrene)
     
  10. Budokhan

    Budokhan Wheeljack's apprentice

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    Nope! After it cures its water proof! Its also, sandable, carvable,paintable & can even be polished to a mirror finish if you like!

    Trust me my friend, once you start to use it, you wont wanna use styrene that much anymore! :wink:  My own personal use of styrene drastically decreased after I started using the stuff and I'll tell ya, boy o boy is it great thing for us 'bashers to be able to use!! :D 
     
  11. Megatron31

    Megatron31 I Belong to Nobody! TFW2005 Supporter

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    sounds like i need to open it up and play with it

    thanks for all the info, i cant wait to see this thing finished though
     
  12. Budokhan

    Budokhan Wheeljack's apprentice

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    Go for it brother! You'll be happy you did! :D  (btw, lemme know if when you open up part B what you think it smells like, to me, its got a kinda "recognizable" odor to it!)

    Always happy to share info with friends & as for R.A.'s melon, ...workin on 'im as we speak! :wink: 
     
  13. Slothboy

    Slothboy Nick

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    Budokhan - Thanks a ton for the info. Looks like I may need to invest in an Optivisor if I'm to be going in with the details! I'll certainly keep in mind what you said about flat planes, too. Would simply attaching sandpaper to a flat, steady surface be good enough for a sanding table?
     
  14. Budokhan

    Budokhan Wheeljack's apprentice

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    No problem good sir! Always happy to help! :D 

    The Optivisors I use have #10 lenses (the highest You can get that I'm aware of) I found a site that has them fairly cheap ( you'll want the "DA-10" version if you plan on getting in real real close). No need to get the opti-loop attachment tho, personally I've found these things to be more of a hindrance than a help. I consider my Optivisors to be the best tool investment I've ever made & I highly recommend them for doing detail work!

    Magnifiers, Optivisors

    As for the flat sanding work surface, you'll need:

    1- Various grades of sandpaper
    2- Double-back tape (3m)
    3- Super flat surface ( A piece of 1/2" thick plexi will do but better still, you can get a 12"x12" polished marble floor tile from either Home Depot or Lowes for about $20. The tiles are usually around 3/8" thick)

    Here's what you do:

    1-If you use the plexi, cut to desired size ( mines about 10"x6") but you can make it any size you wish, its really just a matter of personal preference. If you decide to go with the floor tile go to step 2

    2- Line entire surface of the tile or plexi with the 3M double-back tape in parallel lines, taking care to make sure there is no space between the strips of tape. Make sure you overlap the edges of the tile or plexi with the tape by a little bit & then tear off the excess by using the edge of your surface & tearing the tape against it. ( this will ensure that you have total coverage of your work surface.

    3- When finished lining the surface with tape, carefully remove the backing from the tape strips you've just applied. You'll be doing this step now only because the tape is very,very sticky & the less that gets stuck to it before you apply the sandpaper, the better! Any little bits of detritus that get between it & the sandpaper can leave you with inconsistencies on the piece you're working on.

    4- Take your preferred grade of sandpaper & line it up evenly over the double-back taped work surface. Gently lower it onto the surface & then, starting from the middle & working your way outwards, press the sandpaper down firmly into the tape.

    5- After the sandpaper is firmly pressed, again, using the edge of the work surface, tear any excess paper off. ( No real need for this, it just makes it look nicer than havin rageddy edges, ya know? )

    Et VOILA! You now have a ready-to-use flat sanding surface that you can easily store away when not needed!


    The thing to remember when flat sanding is to always move your piece across the sandpaper in one straight direction evenly & carefully,always maintaining even pressure on your piece, never in circles or wide swooping loops. Going in one direction will ensure consistency in the flatness you achieve. Going in loops or circles will leave you with a piece that doesn't have uniformity to its lines or planes.

    Also, a good way to keep from having to "swap-out" new sandpaper all the time is to "wet-sand". Just apply a thin little layer of water evenly across the entire sandpaper surface & go to town!

    Hope that helps you out a bit!

    Cheers!
    ~BK
     
  15. Slothboy

    Slothboy Nick

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    It certainly does! I've saved this info for future use, and I'll definitely be following it. I really appreciate the help. :) 

    I may go back and re-work some old head sculpts I did once I get these supplies.
     
  16. Budokhan

    Budokhan Wheeljack's apprentice

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    Always happy & ready to lend a helping hand or info my friend! :D 

    & when you do get goin with this stuff, keep me updated? I'd love to see how it works out for ya!

    Cheers amigo!

    ~BK
     
  17. Slothboy

    Slothboy Nick

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    Certainly will! :D 
    I may dig out an old Powerglide head I was working on from a CHUG Ramjet, remove all the crappy old sculpting I did on it (seriously asymmetrical) and start again.
     
  18. Megatron31

    Megatron31 I Belong to Nobody! TFW2005 Supporter

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    peanut butter?!?
     
  19. Budokhan

    Budokhan Wheeljack's apprentice

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    EXACTLY RIGHT!! :lolol 
    Its so weird isnt it? Why does it smell that way? Makes me wanna get a finger full & taste it but I know that would be really really really Really bad....Hahaha
     
  20. convoymagnus

    convoymagnus Yeshua Is Mashiach.

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    Well well mr Budokhan very nice, but where is your beautiful arcee? We still want to see it finished!!!
     

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