Customs: A few Questions regarding colored RIT dye (for folks who have done it)

Discussion in 'Creative General Discussion' started by ShadowStitch, Feb 3, 2009.

  1. ShadowStitch

    ShadowStitch vectoring the hate plague

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    Okay, so I'm no stranger to dye. You know the rules, and so do I.

    Mostly I stick with making stuff black, since that's easy and pretty foolproof (unless you turn up the heat too high and warp the ever-loving hell out of your toy) but I'm considering a few projects wherein I would need to use colored dye to change colors into other colors, subtractive-color-wheel style.

    I'm totally okay with the theory involved -- You can only go darker, you can only change colors into secondary or tertiary colors, and never feed your customs after midnight. What I lack is experience. I wanna make some blue guys purple, some yellow guys orange, etc etc, and I want to know what I'm getting into before I blow a bunch of money on colored dye and more importantly, risk ruining some perfectly good figures.

    Okay, so, my questions, for people who have done it before:

    1) Does colored dye affect the color of plastic evenly? Can I expect a smooth color shift or will it be splotchy/marbled?

    2) Do any RIT colors come out vibrant and accurate, or will it look muddy? IE, will "scarlet" used on white plastic come out RED or will it look like a deep crimson?

    3) Do the colored dyes demand different procedures than simple black? Like perhaps higher temperatures, or multiple dye baths to ensure full penetration and deepen the tint? Are there any tricks I should be aware of?

    I've seen a few folks who have posted galleries now and again, of dyed figures, and forgive me but the results seem hit or miss. I'm just trying to determine if this is a viable course of action or if the results will be lackluster, underwhelming, and potentially ruin a project outright.

    And as I explore this idea a bit further, I'd like to talk with anyone who has extensive experience dyeing their figure parts -- successfully or no; after all, sometimes we learn more from failures than successes.... Thanks Radicons!
     
  2. REDLINE

    REDLINE longer days, plz? Veteran

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    you will sometimes find that thicker plastic spots (ie look at the legs of some figs, there are hollow areas, so those aren't as thick) will not always dye at the same rate, and also when dealing with multiple pieces, some pieces can dye at a different rate based on the parts' densities. I'm sure you've noticed this even with black if you've had to re-dip to get some parts to go fully black. In all honesty, I love to dye colors as well as blacks, even though I'll usually paint over them, just because I view it as "scratch protection", in that if the paint got scratched in use, you'd still have a super-similar color beneath it, thus making the scratch not, or really hard to notice. :) 

    As far as vibrancies, look at my custom LOCs in the gallery, every one of them are dyed except for the blaster/twincast and soundwave/soundblaster customs. You can also look at my two Scrapmetal customs under "Cybertron" as they're both dyed. you'll be happy when you see Havoc.
     
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2009

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