Ive mulled over this a lot. Is it better to just file down ONE side, and not the other? Your keen thoughts give you insight, that either one side gets closer, or they equally get closer..Theres only 2 ways. I filed down both torso sides. Now my jet mode clicks right together. I just looked again, THE REAR TORSO is where the legs click in for jet mode, So it would make sense now, to START your filing on the FRONT TORSO (the torso with the chest that faces you) And bring that down to the back torso. Like I said, I filed both sides..im sure the guys that did this already did it like I did. The biggest thing for me was making the FRONT TORSO even. Like I said I had more plastic on the one side, which made the turret crooked and the arm popped out. After I got both sides the same depth, THEN I started taking them down on the same plane to get the whole torso closer. I didn't really sand a TON out of the back torso, but mine had nasty mold lines right on the EGSE that touches the other torso part, so I would at least file that down a bit so its a nice clean mating surface for the front torso. Its 5 screws. Just experiment. Take some off..put it together..Im REAL careful and sometimes even use calipers and depth gauges..I didn't use any of that crap..Eye ball was good enough, and now its...its just fixed.. I hope that helps.
YES... He is 200% correct..The BIGGEST offender is the top screw mounts, But like I said, my torso had too much plastic on one side, and that had to be leveled so the turret sat rights, and the arms click in with the same pressure.
Mabye I'll do a more "professional video" for you guys using higher res equipment...That video camera looked like shit, and then my halogen light took a shit on me RIGHT in the middle of the video.. you guys have NO idea of the restraint it took to not ruin the video with "Gunnery Sargent Hartman-esque" vulgarity at just HOW PISSED that stupid light made me..I mean. it..1st time I do that and the light blows out..
Great fix. I did my sanding I now have a very satisfying "click". So with this and a very generous coating of floor polish on the hip joints so they are not so floppy, this is now a 5/5 figure.
Wow, superb fix! There was no way I ever thought the shoulders(esp. the left) would ever function properly. The flawed design of the U peg hole instead of a regular rectangle peg hole was the issue and even though this is still a bad design, this fix greatly improves the figure. Thanks snake_eyes!
Its not so much the U shape either. Its the tabs; the ones over pegs, the pegs themselves, or shoulder pieces were not molded long enough.
Just did this, arms now click very tightly and have no problems in transformation or in either vehicle mode... hell, now I even have to use some pressure to unlock them! AWESOME fix! Good work, thanks man!
Yea...Just that man. And I have all sorts of high end Plasti-cut files for plastics and laminates..a DECENT emery board like the one I have in the vid is just fine. Seriously..im glad this is workin out for all you guys. I think Blitz is the best TF to come out in a long time. So they screwed up. The mold isn't 100% right..They shipped it..if you ask me..going into this one your looking at $25 and 15 minutes, for a triple changer and an emery board, and when your done you have one of the most magnificent triple changers ever made.. So what...So we gotta fix it a bit. Hasbro will repaint this, and I'll bet 10-1 that the mold is modified, and whatever it is will work fine. Hell...A running change would be nice. Ive worked tool and die..This isn't really a big job to fix up. It would be nice if down the waves we get a blitzwing come back that we don't have to touch, but for now..im good with it. I have been TF'ing mine over and over..and the fix is still good. I was afraid it would "go away" but no...its still good.
I figured the torso seemed too thick for those tabs to work, but I didn't want to chance filing something down to get it to work. However, your tutorial gave me the confidence, and it worked! Thanks a lot!!
