Ok, I got the hands modified. Not counting the thumb joint they are just under 20mm and with the fingers extended they are ~36mm. I don't know how long to make the 5mm peg so once I get that data I can adjust the post and put together a print layout. I removed the "cuff" that the kreon version had and also extended the fingers so they won't look so stumpy on the larger figure. (stumpy is okay for kreons lol) as well as added another knuckle plate to fingers. I didn't modify the axle channels at all so when they upsized they now sit at ~1.6mm which I think should fit the heavier duty paper clips but I need to measure them. An extension from an experiment with the kreon hands though, will include connector material to keep all the parts together that just happens to be the right diameter to fit into those channels.

Here's some renders, let me know what you think.

 

^^ WOW!!!! Those are incredible, I love how they'll even bend backwards...super work my man. The dimensions of 20mm/36mm sound good. For post length, please make them 6mm long.

Is the post diameter a true 5mm? And is this going to be polished or std? I'll adjust the hand holders accordingly...

MINOR UPDATE

I did some modelling tonight--basically I fixed pretty much all the chest parts.

Here's a before and after (old wing is in transparent RED)



TOP:

-Straighter along the front
-a bit narrower overall
-taller 'points'
-tighter to the chest
-improved attachment (better clips)

BOTTOM:

-improved fit (first version was too tight, had to be opened up)
-much narrower than old design

Here's a shot without the previous design:

 

Thanks man, I'm digging the alterations you've made.

These are true 5mm but I can adjust if needed. I prefer to make the post and port the exact same diameter in order to keep things tight. I'd hate to have these fists falling out of the ports when the arm is angled down. I find that WSF joints tend to loosen over time much quicker than the production molded joints do. We could try a different type of connection if you have the room. Maybe a mushroom cap style? Or a ball or pin joint? Oh, I got it, I could add a ridge to the post and as long as you have a cutout for it then the post should "pop" in to the port. How much room do you have in the wrist? I have an idea for a "spring port". I'll model something up real quick and send it over to you tomorrow.

Given that there is some flex required to get the wrist joint in there, I wouldn't recommend FUD off the bat, so I assume that WSF or WSFP will be the popular choices.

 

You two are on it!

Hasbro needs to send you both some serious freebies! FOC Bruticus (in all colors) is finally going to sell out.

 

I did a bit of work tonight after all. Here's what I came up with, let me know your thoughts:

the updated post:


and for the port:


though I don't think that the image for the SpringPort explains very well. You can check out the DAE file for it if you want, but I won't be able to convert it to a STL till tomorrow.
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BxRZjJlPIffpTXNqdkJUTHRaOHc/edit?usp=sharing

 

Um, question about the paints still (because, honestly that's the only thing holding back my mouth from drooling everywhere from the pure epic-ness this set brings), which ones did you use (exactly), and how exactly did you do the dying process? I tried to find tutorials online but I can't seem to find any  

I'm looking to getting (for sure) the feet, the hands, and those EPIC fins for Vortex   I' love the trailer too, (if you find a way to integrate it into the back), and the back-guns to make this Bruticus stand proudly next to my Fansproject Bruticus   (a kind of... "On cybertron/on earth) kinda set-up  

 

they rotate more or less the same as they do on a human hand. Most articulated thumbs will have the thumb move opposite the fingers to clamp together, but a human hand doesn't actually do that and neither to these. They're not perfect human mimicry but I'm happy with them.

They rotate around the post where the thumb joint inserts into the main hand section and the thumb joint allows the thumb to move in/out/up/down.

If you scroll down to the bottom of this gallery you can see how the smaller version of these hands articulate

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.520826977950991.125509.505767312790291&type=3

 

Dying is very straightforward. If you go to my Hercules thread in my sig, first page, there are a bunch of links including how to dye Shapeways parts.

For painting Fruiticus:

Cleaned all parts using light dish soap, rinse and dry
Primed using light grey automotive spray primer ($3/can at Walmart)

Wing: Tamiya X16 acryllic mixed with Testors blue Acryllic applied with water in very thin coats
Green on wing: Tamiya x15 acryllic direct from the bottle (thin coats mixed with water)
Blastoff: Tamiya x16 acryllic out of the bottle
Vortex: bright orange/flourescent spray paint, then 2 thin coats of Testors red acryllic (near perfect match)
Brawl: bright green/flourescent spray paint with thin coats of Tamiya x15 green, acceptable match, could be improved
Swindle: Krylon sunbeam yellow with very thin coat of Testors yellow/white mixture to slightly brighten it

Purple details on Vortex, Brawl and Swindle: Tamiya x16 direct from the bottle
Also used a sharpie in a few places

It's easier than it looks, and the results are great. Hope this helps!!!!


@Wulongti: thanks for the update, I'll PM you!

 

Where do you buy your paints?

 

As for echo, I'm unsure where he gets all his paints from but, for me, Wal-Mart has some of them or just about any hobby stores. Hobby Lobby has Model Master and Testor paints, but no Tamiya. I've only been able to buy Tamiya paint at the only three privately owned hobby stores in my county or online.

 

Um, well, I've considered the paint matter, and I'm wondering, do you think I could use the games workshop paint? I used the base-coat black primer spray, and it works pretty well for keeping all the detail and not adding a huge layer. If I slightly dissolve the regular paint into some water, the green and reds seem pretty spot on, add some white to the yellow 'till I find the perfect shade, all I need to buy is the purple paint  

 

I've tried Gamesworkshop paints on tf style figs before and it's ok but make sure it's thin and go coat by coat. I had to dilute it to almost nothing for the project I did and then layer it about 5-7 coats thick to get the color to show up correctly. Then I just gave it a light coat of gloss seal and it was good to go. Not perfect by any measure but nothing hard to look at either.

 

Gotcha. Because I don't think I can go through getting all that new paint, that is if the Shapeways set is really THAT expensive. That being said, I'm only getting a few pieces, probably not the whole kit, so maybe it won't come off as TOO expensive  

 

Man I'm just a sucker for the whole look though. All the parts add so much play value to the set. And I own all 3 versions of bruticus so I'll be getting 3 of this kit -.-

 

Well, a friend gave me Fruiticus Vortex and Onslaught, so I want to complete the set, but afterwards I want to get Platinum Bruticus, in the case that he looks anything like a more G1 bruticus (light blue/grey vortex, dark green brawl, dark sand swindle, dark blue and green onslaught, even tho we got that already, and black and brown blastoff), or just like the SDCC one overall. In any case, tho, sign me up for one of these.

I'm not feeling the chestplate (I like his default chest. I get what you were goin' for, echo, and I like it, but I still like the more default chest a bit more   ), the crotch guard, and the vortex addon. All the rest, I can't wait to see more of  

 

I am truly in awe of your creative process. I don't think I've ever seen anyone else prototype a custom with lego, then use that as a basis for a ShapeWays model. I mean, it's possible someone else has, but still. You even rendered the parts over the photos!

Very well done, sir!

 

Canada. Just kidding... Well I do live in Canada so I buy at Walmart, hardware stores, and the best place is hobby stores. Tamiya paints are A1 quality, widely available and produce amazing results. I've heard Gamesworkshop are also good but I've never used them.

Wow, thanks for the support!

No worries...the parts will be available separately. Totally understand not everyone will want the full Monty.

Oh thanks...yeah, I MUST sketch, then visualize in 3d/real life and Lego is great for this. It even helped me think thru the joinery, highly recommended for any custom project!

The digibashes ended up becoming a requirement in my Herc thread...it's not perfect but I find it helps solve major design issues. At times, I've even gone back to the CAD after seeing the digibash result.

 

I live in a rural area, so hobby shops are rare, but Tamiya sells paint via their website, so problem solved

 

I gotta say, your add-ons pushed me over the edge to get the retail Bruticus. My main reason for not getting it yet was of course, the look of the combined mode. Seeing this thread then finding them all at one stop made me take the fall. You proved that with the right skills, one can truly polish a turd.