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Looking for the best way

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Old 04-20-2012, 10:25 PM   #1
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Looking for the best way

EDIT ADD ON:What the best way to get a clean and level cut in plastic?

So i don't do much of this stuff but I've had my heart set on this project for a long while and now i have all the bits.

I have Armada Tidal Wave here.
Tidal Wave (2003) - Decepticon - www.tfu.info

And I want to cut him apart some how and stick that Headmaster unit (From a Chromedome).
Into the head area.
The safest and easiest way would just be take out the head and pull the headmasterunit there. But i want to try to be fancy first.

I'm currently thinking;
I was thinking of hollowing out Tidal waves head cutting off the top part and cut off the face (For the stat bars to be seen through). So when the 'head' is done. A head master will sit on top of the head at shoulder level. And then I can pull the 'head' up and look at the stat of a plugged in head master, via the hole that was tidal waves face.

I'm not married to this idea. I'm still think about what/how to go about alot of this. If anyone has a better idea; I'd like to hear.

But mostly I'm looking for any advice, 'don't-dos', look out for, and stuff like that.
Attached Thumbnails
Looking for the best way-show-all.jpg   Looking for the best way-head-unit-inside.jpg   Looking for the best way-head-unit.jpg   Looking for the best way-back-stats.jpg   Looking for the best way-body-front-back.jpg  

Looking for the best way-body-inside.jpg   Looking for the best way-headmaster-unit-d.jpg   Looking for the best way-headmaster-unit.jpg   Looking for the best way-see.jpg   Looking for the best way-seeup.jpg  

Looking for the best way-lines-up.jpg   Looking for the best way-dsc00010.jpg   Looking for the best way-dsc00011.jpg   Looking for the best way-dsc00012.jpg  
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Old 04-21-2012, 12:44 AM   #2
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I love the ideas you have going here, the most effective way IMO would be put a block type piece in the neck cavity after tidal waves head is taken out and made a socket for said block so the headmaster fits? OR figure a way to put an entire rigging system from an original headmaster (the springloaded starbars etc) and find a way to work it all out
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Old 04-21-2012, 01:12 AM   #3
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I don't know why, but I love this idea.
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Or he's a porn star.
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Old 04-22-2012, 01:11 AM   #4
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Hah this is a brilliant idea.
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Old 04-22-2012, 01:46 PM   #5
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What the best way to get a clean and level cut in plastic?
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Old 04-22-2012, 03:07 PM   #6
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Probably a dremel-style electronic rotary tool. Most customizers use them.

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Old 04-22-2012, 04:04 PM   #7
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A dremel works good, but a few words of advise. Cut slow otherwise it melts the plastic instead of getting a decent cut. Always cut smaller/less then you need then file/sand to final size hole or inside box or reverse for other cuts..as in cut longer than you want then sand/file to size. There are some great tuts on this site for this type of customizing. Oh and another tip...dont cut all the way threw to start with , make a shallow cut to start and go over your cut a couple of times lightly till your threw.
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Old 04-22-2012, 04:17 PM   #8
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X-Acto makes saw blades for their hobby knife handles. They are about the same size as a regular X-Acto blade but, with teeth. In fact, a nice set of X-Acto knives wouldn't be a bad idea. I like to use the square-nosed blade myself. Another wise investment here is a few packs of emory boards. These are fantastic for removing material at a slower pace. Also,

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Old 05-04-2012, 03:36 PM   #9
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DiD you know finding super small spring is really flippin' hard!
Suggestion: DON'T LOOSE SPRINGS!

I thinking of holding the head master bit and the square base of tidal waves head.
(Note: i cut the face and head away from the base).
But i want something solid like a metal pole or something.


What's the best why to go about that?
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Old 05-04-2012, 04:04 PM   #10
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I'll add this... in a case where you want to cut something precisely, and not lose a bunch of the plastic, go with a jeweler's saw. A dremel is fast and dirty, but you'll end up gouging out a lot of plastic around the cut. A jeweler's saw is much cleaner... and cheaper than a Dremel.

If you do end up using one, I'd recommend getting some pointers. If you're not careful with a jeweler's saw, the actual blade can break very easily (it's very thin and under tension), so there are tricks for sawing corners and stuff. In any case, breakage is common, and you would normally have a whole bag of replacement blades just in case (not expensive).

Oh, and you may already know this, but when sawing plastic, always go slow (lower RPMs on a Dremel, otherwise the plastic will melt over the blade's teeth, and you'll lose a lot of cutting power. This applies to drilling with a Dremel as well...

Hope that helps! Good luck!

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