help from the pro's?

Megatron31 · 08-13-2011, 12:37 PM

venksta thanks for posting that pic, almost all of my molds are done that way now, my very first was not. there was a thing in the tutorials that mentions this method of casting. my new rifle mold is made that way except the gun is upside down, the areas i have trouble with are the ammo clip where the raised triangle is, and the very back of the gun where there is the circle with the line in the middle the corners of it seem to catch air. out of the 20-25 or so of those i have made i think only one time has it worked like it is supposed to.

my seeker nullrays molds and the perceptor pistol i have, almost never put out a cast with bubbles once the mold is perfected (venting and trimming)

but thank you guys for sharing your experience on all of this, casue if you look on this site their isnt very much on casting beyond making the mold and a basic walk through.

like the one that mentions using 4 marbles on the second part of a 2 part mold but never says why?

Superquad7 · 05-18-2012, 03:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Superquad7

This thread is totally rockin'! Keep posting your feedback, as I think this would make a nice tutorial-discussion type of resource

I wanted to bump this thread for the purpose above. Thanks a lot, gang!

Megatron31 · 07-12-2012, 08:03 AM

man i had forgot about this thread glad to see it again though

so much has changed since i started this and greatly due to the info in it.

things i have learned as of late

to do color casting with hand made parts, its very important to prime the part before you make a mold of it and here is why

i hand made part gets sanded shaped and glued together multiple times and sanded vs unsanded areas look different in the dye and you can easily spot them. primering will highlight areas like this so they can be smoothed before you make your mold.

as i have noticed with parts that use pieces from hasbro toys or anyother injection molded part there is a smooth near glossy sheen on casted parts and the hand assembled areas will sometimes have dull areas where heavy sanding was done and not fully finished out with a high grit sandpaper (300-2000 grit in some cases)

all these little things will help to reproduce a top notch part that requires little effort once the casting process is done

Superquad7 · 08-16-2012, 05:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Superquad7

I wanted to bump this thread for the purpose above. Thanks a lot, gang!

Would anyone like to contribute here before I review this for Tutorials?

Superquad7 · 06-14-2013, 05:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Superquad7

Would anyone like to contribute here before I review this for Tutorials?

I just thought I'd bump this thread to see if anyone had anything to add here.

08-13-2011, 12:37 PM	#21
Megatron31 Their Defences are Broken Join Date: Apr 2010 Posts: 5,970 Location: Tennessee Collection Count: Enough	venksta thanks for posting that pic, almost all of my molds are done that way now, my very first was not. there was a thing in the tutorials that mentions this method of casting. my new rifle mold is made that way except the gun is upside down, the areas i have trouble with are the ammo clip where the raised triangle is, and the very back of the gun where there is the circle with the line in the middle the corners of it seem to catch air. out of the 20-25 or so of those i have made i think only one time has it worked like it is supposed to. my seeker nullrays molds and the perceptor pistol i have, almost never put out a cast with bubbles once the mold is perfected (venting and trimming) but thank you guys for sharing your experience on all of this, casue if you look on this site their isnt very much on casting beyond making the mold and a basic walk through. like the one that mentions using 4 marbles on the second part of a 2 part mold but never says why? M31 Designs Custom Cast Weapons and Accessories I Still Function!!!!!!!!

07-12-2012, 08:03 AM	#23
Megatron31 Their Defences are Broken Join Date: Apr 2010 Posts: 5,970 Location: Tennessee Collection Count: Enough	man i had forgot about this thread glad to see it again though so much has changed since i started this and greatly due to the info in it. things i have learned as of late to do color casting with hand made parts, its very important to prime the part before you make a mold of it and here is why i hand made part gets sanded shaped and glued together multiple times and sanded vs unsanded areas look different in the dye and you can easily spot them. primering will highlight areas like this so they can be smoothed before you make your mold. as i have noticed with parts that use pieces from hasbro toys or anyother injection molded part there is a smooth near glossy sheen on casted parts and the hand assembled areas will sometimes have dull areas where heavy sanding was done and not fully finished out with a high grit sandpaper (300-2000 grit in some cases) all these little things will help to reproduce a top notch part that requires little effort once the casting process is done M31 Designs Custom Cast Weapons and Accessories I Still Function!!!!!!!!