those sound neat tony. I remember back when I worked in a sign shop, we used a vinyl type paint, but it was thinner based. it was intended for plastic and airbrushing directly onto vinyl...I think it was called "lacryl" or something.

 

I use just about anything and everything. I've got art supplies of every kind stockpiled from years of work and play, so I try to use as many different paints and inks as possible. Acrylics, enamels, GW paints, Fusion, Tamiya, Testors, Dr Martin's and Higgins watercolors and inks...

Like I said, anything and everything. I find different projects often call for different paints. I like to keep things interesting too. Changing methods and experimenting is a great way to discover new tools or tricks of the trade.

I happened to be in my local GW store and they showed me their new ink wash set. Has anyone picked this up yet? And if so, how well does it work? Like I said, I have inks already. I'm just curious if there's a huge difference in the traditional inks and the GW stuff. They said the GW inks are not as glossy as traditional inks. I thought that was what flat sealer was for, but anyway, just curious if anyone had given them a test drive.

 

Thanks! Is that the paint that smells super bad? Think I have played with it before to repair a section of an old vinyl car seat, pretty thick too. I had to be careful with what bonding agents I was adding as using thinner is one of the reason I dislike enamels and such, Mine are completely water soluble thank goodness.

 

Waste of money dude. I seriously do not like them at all. They flow horribly and acted more like a glaze than an ink.

 

yeah, the lacryl was terrible smelling, but I kinda liked it.
very expensive and sold in quarts or gallons...

it was strong enough that the overspray from the air brush...was permanent on vinyl and plastic.

 

Based on the questions I asked and the answers they gave, I didn't bite.

If the GW inks are thicker (even if it's miniscule) than traditional inks, what's the point? That does not seem like an advantage. Controlling ink sometimes can be difficult, but when used properly, it really does make a sculpt sing.

The guy gave me a line (only doing his job, of course) that with the new inks the models "practically paint themselves" to which I aswered "where's the fun in that? I love to paint.".

I understand what he was trying to say and if I was more of the "gamer who needs to paint my entire army this weekend" type, that angle would be effective. I'm more of the modeler/hobby type who sees the value in the process as well as in the finished product. Some of my projects (canabalized model kit lego TFs take months sometimes) take much longer than others (Joker repaint took a couple hours) based on time available and the given project's complexity.

Thanks for your feedback on those inks. Most helpful.

 

LOL I love GW salesman, so stupid but they think they know everything. I hate asking questions when I step in but I do love telling them i buy my armies from stores that sell at more reasonable prices. I think that the inks have there place for speed painters like you said, but for me I like very thin flowing inks that settle in the grove where they are supposed to instead of giving a sort of transparent coat on the whole area painted.

 

Yep i think youve pretty much hit the nail on the head as far as the new washes are concerned.
IMO the main problem with them is they lack the strength of a decent ink.
Also the gw "foundation" paint range seems pretty poor for a supposed expert range of paints.

 

like REDLINE i don't limit my paint by brand i just buy what i need of whats easy to get. as said i like both for certain things i think acrylic gunmetal rocks as well as steal , but aluminum gold pewter etc etc any that need mirror like reflective aspects enamel all the way

as far as inks i use for washing into crevices and tinting my base color. tinting as in when i wash it on. a wash is when you paint a little on then dilute it with water and spread it evenly. there are several methods to this thats just what i do. also i use it to panel line with ink and a quilled toothpick. by quilled i mean sharpened and cutting a slit 1/4 inch from the tip. the slit is to hold the ink better.

 

ah now i fully understand the gripe you have with them. like i said i am new to ink but i like what i have done with them so far. i thought the tinting factor was part of it i am relieved to hear that it is just crappy ink because the tint aspect is fine for some projects but i don't want to change the tint that much on others.

 

I think Tamiya Fine Surface Primer is a fantastic paint. It comes in white and light gray, and it gives an amazingly smooth finish. If I had the time I'd love to go over my Transformers that are mostly white plastic and cover them in Tamiya Primer followed up with some panel lining; would look really nice :-/

I haven't been customizing long enough to feel like I have any set method, I experiment with new paints whenever I get the chance. I've been spraying Testors Flat Enamels out of a cheapie airbrush and I've been pretty happy with the results.

Game Workshops are pretty good for brushing when properly thinned. I've heard Vallejo is superior paint, though.

 

Does anyone know if you can brush paint over the Tamiya Primer?

I know that its not it intended purpose, but I'm curious.

 

well i never used the primer but i do not see why it would be a problem unless there is a reaction with the paint you are applying to it. like enamel on top of lacquer or is it the other way around. anyways if no reaction IE: bubbling or not completely drying you should be safe. just try it on a scrap piece first


I have a question i am trying to paint some soft rubber type material it could be soft vinyl i am unsure. anyways i can not get any paint to stick to it it is also rather small to try and sand it anybody have any suggestions? the paint just rubs off no matter if it is enamel or acrylic